Québec Class 6 Motorcycle study guide: key rules on all 15 topics

Free Québec Class 6 Motorcycle study guide: 324 key points from the Operating a Motorcycle in plain words, organised by topic, each topic linked to its practice questions.

By the Canada Exam Prep Editorial Team · Updated October 17, 2026

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This study guide collects our notes on every topic of the SAAQ Motorcycle Knowledge Test (Class 6R Learner's Licence) on one page: 324 short points in our own words, grouped by topic and by handbook section. Read it from top to bottom before your first practice test, or jump to a topic from the list below.

Each topic ends with a link to its practice questions, so you can check what you just read straight away, and a link to the official chapter for the full wording. The notes summarise the Operating a Motorcycle from the Société de l'assurance automobile du Québec (SAAQ); they do not replace it, and where our notes and the official source differ, the official source wins.

Study these notes as flashcards →

Class 6R, 6A and the knowledge test

The steps from the Class 6R learner's licence to a Class 6 licence, the knowledge test sections and pass marks, retake waits, the driving course, the 6A curfew and passenger rules.

Practise Class 6R, 6A and the knowledge test questions Flashcards Official chapter

Licence steps, pp. 16–19

Steps: self-study and knowledge test (Class 6R learner's licence), training at a recognized driving school, closed-track test (Class 6A learner's licence), road test (Class 6 licence).
To prepare for the knowledge test, read this guide and update your knowledge with the Driver's Handbook.
If you don't hold a Class 5 licence, the knowledge test also covers road signs and signals and traffic rules.
The driving school course totals 32 hours: 6 hours of classroom theory (two 3-hour blocks), 16 hours of closed-track practice (four 4-hour blocks) and 10 hours on the road (five 2-hour blocks).
The learner period lasts at least 11 months.

Obtaining a motorcycle licence (Classes 6A, 6B, 6C), knowledge test (page retrieved via archive.org, June 2026)

The knowledge test takes about one hour.
Passing it gives a Class 6R learner's licence, which allows riding on a closed track and on the road with an instructor during training at an SAAQ-recognized driving school.
If you hold a Class 5 driver's or probationary licence, the test covers motorcycle driving only; otherwise it also covers the Highway Safety Code, signs, pavement markings and traffic signals.
Pass marks: 85% on the motorcycle section; 75% on the Highway Safety Code and signs section.
If you fail, you must wait at least 28 days to retake the test.
Cheating (any prohibited material or device, used or not) means an automatic fail and a wait of at least 56 days, or 90 days for a repeat.
Only a dictionary without illustrations or handwritten notes and SAAQ-provided material are allowed.
Candidates under 18 need the consent form signed by a person with parental authority; everyone fills out a declaration of illness or functional impairment and passes a vision test.
The motorcycle course must take at least 30 days.
The closed-track test (about 15 minutes) can be taken after holding the 6R for at least one month and completing the course; passing gives a Class 6A learner's licence for riding on the road.
The Class 6A learner's licence must be held at least 11 months, with a curfew: no riding between midnight and 5 a.m.
Full protective gear is mandatory during training: approved helmet, visor or goggles, long sleeves, long pants without holes, gloves covering the hands, boots or closed shoes.
A learner's licence holder may not carry a passenger (guide p. 148).

Highway Safety Code rules for riders, pp. 104, 118, 142

Riders in groups of two or more in one lane must ride in zigzag formation (s. 483).
Lane splitting, riding between the shoulder and a vehicle, and riding between moving and parked vehicles in the same lane are prohibited.
Switch to low beams within 150 m of another vehicle or on a well-lit road (s. 425).

Licence classes and eligibility (page retrieved via archive.org, June 2026)

Class 6A: any motorcycle; Class 6B: motorcycles of 400 cc or less; Class 6C: motorcycles of 125 cc or less; a three-wheeled motorcycle needs a Class 6E plus a valid Class 5.
Eligibility: principal residence in Québec, Canadian citizenship or the right to stay in Canada more than six months, at least 16 years old, parental consent under 18, fewer than four demerit points, and no licence revocation in the last two years for demerit points or a driving-related criminal offence.
The SAAQ calls the Driver's Handbook and Operating a Motorcycle required reading for the knowledge test.
The Class 6R learner's licence is valid for 18 months.
Learner's licence holders must respect the midnight-to-5 a.m. curfew and never carry passengers; without a Class 5 licence you are subject to the four-demerit-point bracket.
Fees listed (2026): knowledge test $13.50; Class 6R licence up to $624.80 depending on the month issued (includes the insurance contribution); closed-track test $33.75; Class 6A learner's licence $18.50; road test $119.00.

Balance, visibility and the laws of physics

Why riding differs from driving: balance, visibility and vulnerability, plus gravity, the gyroscopic effect, inertia, centrifugal force, kinetic energy and traction.

Practise Balance, visibility and the laws of physics questions Flashcards Official chapter

Special context of riding, pp. 14–29

About 90% of the information you use to make driving decisions comes through your eyes, so good vision and observation strategies are essential.
Habits from driving a car (speeding, impaired driving, poor communication) tend to carry over to riding.
Overconfidence and overestimating your abilities raise your risk of a crash.
You must keep your balance at every moment, especially at low speed and when stopping; bike size and weight, sand, water, gusts and rain all affect stability.
Motorcycles are small and are on the road only part of the year, so drivers must get used to seeing them again each summer; many crashes happen because the other driver didn't see the rider.
A rider is vulnerable: apart from protective gear, your protection is your riding skill, your ability to anticipate risks and your judgment.
Wear a good helmet and riding clothes from your very first lesson.
The power-to-weight ratio (engine power compared with weight) affects your safety.

Laws of physics, pp. 29–32

Gravity slows you uphill and speeds you up downhill; adding a passenger or baggage changes the centre of gravity.
Gyroscopic effect: the faster the wheels spin, the more stable the motorcycle; at low speed it is almost nil, which is why balancing is harder.
Inertia keeps a moving motorcycle going straight unless a force slows it or changes its path; you overcome it to change direction (countersteering).
Centrifugal force pushes the motorcycle toward the outside of a curve above about 25 km/h; it grows with speed, weight and the radius of the curve; you lean toward the inside to offset it.
The guide uses about 25 km/h as the dividing line between low speed (counterbalancing) and higher speed (countersteering).
Kinetic energy depends on weight and speed: at 90 km/h a motorcycle stores four times the energy it has at 45 km/h.
Kinetic energy is shed as heat in the brakes, friction of tires on the road or, in a crash, by deforming the motorcycle, the obstacle and the rider's body.
Tires are the only contact with the road; traction (the coefficient of friction) depends on the surface and on tire quality, wear and pressure.
Dry concrete has roughly ten times the friction coefficient of ice; worn tires can greatly lengthen braking distance.

Dashboard, controls and components

Dashboard lights and gauges, handlebar and foot controls, the kill switch, choke, ignition positions and the fuel tap.

Practise Dashboard, controls and components questions Flashcards Official chapter

How a motorcycle works, pp. 33–36

Take time to learn every component of a new or unfamiliar motorcycle; many crashes involve riders on a bike they don't know.
Riding means working hand controls and foot controls at the same time; you must be able to use them without looking.
Dashboard: speedometer (km/h), odometer (total km), trip meter (km since reset), battery charge light, neutral light, tachometer (engine RPM, on some models), turn-signal light, high-beam light, oil pressure light.
The oil pressure light means oil pressure is too low or the level is low; deal with it immediately.

Handlebar and foot controls, pp. 37–43

Front brake lever: squeezed with the four fingers of the right hand; the rear brake is a pedal on the right side.
The front brake gives about 70% of braking capacity; the rear about 30% and keeps the motorcycle stable by limiting the weight shift forward.
Some front brake and clutch levers can be adjusted to finger length.
The throttle grip controls engine speed; it should snap back to idle when released, or it must be repaired at once.
Electric start: ignition ON, squeeze the clutch or select neutral, then press the starter.
The emergency cut-off (kill) switch, worked with the right thumb, stops the engine instantly; it must be set back to ON to restart; use it regularly so it becomes automatic.
Clutch lever (left hand): released, it connects the engine to the transmission and moves the bike; squeezed, it disconnects them.
A choke helps a cold carburetted engine start; close it fully once the engine idles normally; don't adjust it while riding. Most newer motorcycles have fuel injection instead.
Turn signals are usually worked with the thumb; not all cancel themselves; a forgotten signal can lead others to pull out thinking you are turning.
Headlight switch selects high or low beam; a dashboard light shows when high beam is on.
The horn is much quieter than a car horn.
Rear brake pedal: less powerful than the front but essential; on some models it applies both brakes.
Most motorcycles have five or six gears plus neutral; the gearshift lever returns to its rest position after each shift; typical pattern: first down, neutral, then the others up.
Ignition positions: ON, ACC (accessories), OFF (key removable), LOCK (steering locked against theft), PARK (rear parking light, engine off, some models).
Fuel tap (carburetted bikes): ON to ride, OFF when parked for a long time to avoid leaks, RES to use the reserve; refuel soon after switching to RES and return the tap to ON.
Running out of fuel can destabilize a novice rider.

Basic operations and riding position

Moving, mounting, lifting and starting the motorcycle, scanning the right areas, the safe riding position, clutch friction point, gearshift and throttle control.

Practise Basic operations and riding position questions Flashcards Official chapter

Basic operations, pp. 44–47

Moving the motorcycle without the engine: stand on the left side, squeeze the front brake, select neutral, balance it upright, raise the side stand, lean it slightly toward you, release the brake and push with equal force on both grips, using the front brake to slow it.
If you push the motorcycle at night, leave its lights on and make yourself visible.
Mounting: from the left (side-stand side), squeeze the front brake, straighten the bars, swing the right leg over, sit, push the bike upright with the left leg, put both feet down, raise the stand.
If you can't put both feet firmly on the ground at a stop, the motorcycle may be the wrong size for you.
Lifting a fallen motorcycle: turn off the engine (key or kill switch), put it in first gear to lock the rear wheel, take your time, check the surroundings, grip the low-side handlebar, sit against the seat, push up with your legs, then put the side stand down.
Close the fuel tap after a fall if you can reach it.
Starting: ignition ON, neutral, kill switch ON, press the starter, let the engine reach idle; with a choke, open it first and close it gradually and then fully.
Riding off with a cold engine can make it misfire and raises crash risk.

Scanning and riding position, pp. 48–51

A motorcycle tends to go where you look.
Going straight, look as far ahead as possible; in a turn or curve, look toward where you will exit it; scan your lane, the next lanes and the roadsides.
Never stare at the obstacle or pothole you want to avoid.
Safe riding position: wrists slightly bent, arms relaxed with elbows slightly bent, head up, torso relaxed, back straight, knees hugging the tank, feet on the footrests.
The lower palm sits slightly below the throttle so you don't speed up or slow down by accident.
The widest part of the foot (the ball) goes on the footrest.
Hugging the tank with the knees helps balance in turns and makes counterbalancing and countersteering work.
A relaxed position tires you less and lets you react faster.

Clutch, gearshift and throttle, pp. 52–54

The friction point is where engine power starts reaching the rear wheel; the front suspension dips slightly and engine speed drops.
Finding the friction point lets you start smoothly and keep balance at low speed.
From neutral, press the gearshift lever all the way down for first gear; lift it to shift up.
With the engine off, a click tells you each gear has engaged; you may need to rock the bike to find neutral.
Throttle control needs a careful right wrist; poor control can cause a sudden unintended surge, leaving your path or losing control.
Smooth acceleration and deceleration also cut fuel use.

Brakes, counterbalancing and countersteering

How to share braking between front and rear, slowing from 50 km/h, counterbalancing below 25 km/h and countersteering above 25 km/h.

Practise Brakes, counterbalancing and countersteering questions Flashcards Official chapter

Using the brakes, pp. 55–56

If a wheel locks while braking on a motorcycle, a fall almost always follows.
Brake gradually and with both wheels at once.
Pressing too hard on the rear pedal can lock the rear wheel.
The front brake does most of the work (about 70%); the rear (about 30%) mainly stabilizes the bike and helps at low speed.
Slowing from 50 km/h or more: release the throttle, press the rear pedal gently, squeeze the front lever gradually (weight shifts forward and the fork dips), keep light rear pressure, release when at the desired speed, then hold speed with the throttle.
Practise braking at low speed first and build up speed gradually.

Counterbalancing, pp. 56–57

Counterbalancing is for turns, obstacles and curves at very low speed, below about 25 km/h.
At low speed the gyroscopic effect is weak, so you turn the handlebars toward the turn; the bike leans that way.
To keep balance, shift your weight, mainly the upper body, toward the outside of the turn; in tighter spaces also move the pelvis.
Steps: look at the exit point, turn the bars toward the turn, shift weight to the outside, then follow the bike back upright as you accelerate out.
The sharper the turn, the more the bike leans and the more you shift weight outward.

Countersteering, pp. 57–58

Countersteering is for turns, obstacles and curves above about 25 km/h.
Above that speed the gyroscopic effect, inertia and centrifugal force hold the bike upright, so you must push to lean it.
Push forward on the handgrip on the same side as the curve: right curve, push the right grip; left curve, push the left grip.
Steps: look toward the exit before the curve, push the grip on the curve side, keep a constant speed through it.
Don't use the clutch or brakes while countersteering.
Higher speed and tighter curves need more pressure on the bar; heed advisory speed signs before sharp curves and slow down.

Starting, shifting, stopping and curves

Setting off, upshifting and downshifting, braking, coming to a stop, emergency braking, turns below 25 km/h, curves above 25 km/h and avoiding obstacles.

Practise Starting, shifting, stopping and curves questions Flashcards Official chapter

Manoeuvres in general, pp. 59–61

A technique is a "how-to"; a manoeuvre is an ordered sequence of techniques (e.g. a right turn uses scanning, throttle control and counterbalancing).
Every manoeuvre has three steps: initiating, executing and completing.
A safe riding position and scanning the right areas are used in every manoeuvre.
Speed affects almost every manoeuvre; ride within the limit and your skill.

Starting off and shifting, pp. 61–64

Starting off: right foot on the footrest, left foot down, right knee against the tank, both brakes on; squeeze the clutch, put the right foot down and select first with the left foot; then left foot down and right foot on the rear brake, release the front brake, ease the clutch to the friction point while opening the throttle; release the rear brake as the bike moves, accelerate gradually, left foot up.
Uphill you need a little more throttle to start.
Downshifting smoothly takes more skill than upshifting.
Upshift: release the throttle as acceleration fades, squeeze the clutch, lift the lever one gear while easing the clutch out, roll on the throttle.
Skipping a gear when accelerating can make a pass take much longer.
Downshift: release the throttle, squeeze the clutch, press the lever down one gear, ease the clutch out; repeat for each gear.
Skipping gears when downshifting causes heavy engine braking and a forward weight shift that can make you lose control.

Braking and stopping, pp. 65–69

Too much front brake can lock the front wheel and cause a fall; ABS prevents lock-up.
The faster you go, the more skill braking requires.
Coming to a stop: release the throttle, squeeze the clutch and downshift gear by gear to first, brake gradually with rear then front without locking, select neutral or first, and put the left foot down once fully stopped.
The best emergency stop is the one you never need: anticipate, ride at a safe speed and keep safety margins.
Emergency braking without ABS (guide's sequence): release the throttle; don't downshift; don't grab the front brake first; keep arms relaxed and slightly bent; brake hard with the rear up to the lock threshold, then add the front without locking; squeeze the clutch to stop; put a foot or both feet down.
Using the rear brake first keeps the fork from diving as much and gives a better view of the obstacle.
Avoid braking in a curve; if you must, start straightening the bike while braking, then brake firmly once upright without locking, looking where you want to go. Braking in a curve takes more distance.
After an emergency stop, select the gear you need to move off quickly without stalling.

Turns, curves and obstacles, pp. 70–75

Turn below 25 km/h: look at the exit, release the throttle before the turn, turn the bars and shift weight outward (counterbalance), then accelerate gradually.
Many motorcycle crashes happen in curves, often because of excess speed.
Curve above 25 km/h: judge the radius and a safe speed, look at the exit; ease off the throttle before the curve, then hold the throttle steady; countersteer; look ahead and accelerate within the limit as the bike rises on exit.
On winding roads with successive curves, don't accelerate out of each curve or you will arrive too fast for the next one.
Ideal path: from the outside of the curve toward the inside, keeping a safe distance from the centre line in case another vehicle drifts into your lane.
Avoiding an obstacle: don't stare at it; look where you want to go; ease off the throttle; below 25 km/h counterbalance, above 25 km/h countersteer by pushing the grip on the side you want to go; then straighten and resume speed.

Breakdowns, skids and special situations

Pulling onto the shoulder, oil and temperature warnings, shimmy and wobble, flat tires, broken clutch cable, jammed throttle, broken chain, skids, hydroplaning and riding over obstacles.

Practise Breakdowns, skids and special situations questions Flashcards Official chapter

Pulling onto the shoulder, pp. 76–77

Shoulders are often uneven, lower than the road and unpaved; pull onto one only when it is safe, slowing as much as possible first and judging the drop-off.
Sequence: look far ahead, release the throttle and brake gradually, release both brakes just before leaving the roadway, left foot down once stopped; stay visible.

Warning lights and mechanical failures, pp. 77–83

The oil pressure light comes on briefly at ignition and goes off; if it comes on while riding, stop as soon as possible; riding on could damage the engine and lock the rear wheel.
Oil light or engine temperature in the H zone: pick a safe spot, release the throttle and squeeze the clutch, turn off the engine with the kill switch, brake gradually while still on the road, then ease onto the shoulder.
A liquid-cooled engine: leave the ignition ON so the fan can remove heat, and wait for it to cool (possibly over an hour) before checking coolant.
Shimmy (handlebars snapping left and right) and wobble (the bike zigzagging) come from mechanical causes or use (excess speed, uneven load).
In a shimmy or wobble: don't brake hard or look down; hold the bars firmly without fighting the motion; release the throttle gradually and squeeze the clutch, let the bike slow, brake gradually, then pull over.
Flat tire: avoid braking. Rear flat: hold firmly, ease off the throttle, squeeze the clutch, pull over only when nearly stopped, using the front brake gently. Front flat: hold firmly, ease off, move your weight back if possible, pull over when nearly stopped, using the rear brake gently.
Broken clutch cable: you can't downshift properly; find a safe spot, hold the bars, release the throttle and let engine compression slow you, turn off the engine with the kill switch, brake gently, expecting the rear wheel to lock when the engine stops.
Jammed throttle: if safe you can try freeing it with the rear brake on while twisting the grip; otherwise hold firmly, squeeze the clutch and hit the kill switch at the same time, slow down, then pull over; have it checked before riding again.
A broken chain or belt can lock the rear wheel; hold firmly, squeeze the clutch, kill the engine, slow down and pull over, then have the bike fully inspected.

Skids, hydroplaning and obstacles, pp. 84–86

Skids happen when wheels lose traction, usually from sudden acceleration or braking or not adjusting before a curve.
In any skid: stay calm, keep arms and hands relaxed, release the throttle and hold the bars firmly.
Front wheel skidding under braking: release the front brake.
Rear wheel skidding under braking: release the rear brake and turn the bars in the direction of the skid.
Rear wheel skidding under acceleration: release the throttle and turn the bars in the direction of the skid.
Both wheels skidding under braking: release both brakes.
Hydroplaning through a puddle: tires glide on water; look far ahead, release the throttle, avoid sudden moves, don't steer or brake, hold firmly for when grip returns, then accelerate gradually.
It is always better to go around an obstacle than over it.
Riding over an obstacle: slow down as much as possible, hold firmly and go straight, rise slightly off the seat with knees and elbows bent, just before impact pull up on the bars to shift weight back, release the throttle; afterwards stop and check tires and rims.

Vision, visual checks, speed and safety margins

Field of vision and speed, scanning ahead, mirrors and blind spots, adapting speed, stopping distance, and front, rear and side safety margins.

Practise Vision, visual checks, speed and safety margins questions Flashcards Official chapter

Signs, rules and vision, pp. 88–94

Traffic is denser and more varied (cyclists, in-line skaters, motorized mobility aids); cooperation and patience are essential.
You must know road signs and signals and obey the Highway Safety Code; long-time car drivers may need to refresh this knowledge (the Driver's Handbook explains it).
About 90% of driving information comes from your eyes; you need to see far, judge distances and tell colours apart.
Field of vision = central vision + peripheral vision; objects straight ahead are easier to see than those to the sides.
Stationary, your field of vision covers a little over 150 degrees; it narrows to about 100 degrees at 40 km/h, about 75 degrees at 70 km/h and about 45 degrees at 100 km/h.
At 100 km/h your field of vision is roughly halved because the brain can process only so much; you can miss a car leaving a driveway or a child at the roadside.
Visual checks ahead: look far ahead, sweep your eyes left and right regularly, and turn your head slightly to make up for the helmet's limits.
Adjust mirrors outward so you see half of the lane behind and as far along the sides as possible; objects in the mirrors are closer and larger than they look.
Check mirrors before every manoeuvre (stopping at an intersection, changing lanes, merging onto a highway).
Blind spots remain even with good mirrors; check them with a quick look over the shoulder before every manoeuvre.
A vehicle that disappears from your mirror may be in your blind spot.

Adapting your speed and stopping distance, pp. 94–96

A safe speed starts with obeying the speed limit, including minimum limits; riding too slowly can endanger others and hold up traffic.
Adapt speed to road layout, surface (gravel, slippery), traffic density and work zones, and to sun, rain, fog, wind and darkness.
Speed is one of the leading causes of crashes in Québec.
Highway Safety Code s. 330: drivers must slow down when visibility is poor (darkness, fog, rain or other precipitation) or the road is slippery or not completely cleared.
Stopping distance depends on speed, vehicle weight, tire condition, road conditions and braking efficiency.
Stopping distance = perception time + reaction time + braking distance.
Perception time is the time to analyse that there is a risk; reaction time is the time to respond; braking distance runs from brake application to a full stop.
ABS does not necessarily shorten braking distance.

Safety margins, pp. 96–98

Safety margins give you room to react and make you more visible.
Keep at least two seconds behind the vehicle ahead, counted from a fixed roadside object ("one thousand and one, one thousand and two"); more than two seconds is better.
With reduced visibility or traction or a damaged road, increase the margin to three or four seconds or more.
Aim for the same margin behind as in front; check mirrors to gauge it.
If someone follows too closely, don't speed up; change lanes as soon as you safely can.
Keep about one metre of space on each side; move within the lane if a heavy vehicle, car or cyclist is too close.

Being seen and choosing a third of the lane

Signalling your presence and intentions, eye contact, brake lights and horn, and when to use the left, middle or right third of the lane.

Practise Being seen and choosing a third of the lane questions Flashcards Official chapter

Signalling your presence and intentions, pp. 99–100

Communicating is more than using turn signals; making yourself visible is your responsibility.
Ways to be seen: ride in the right third of the lane for the situation, wear light-coloured protective gear, and fit a variable-intensity headlight modulator.
The guide recommends using the high beam at full strength in the daytime, especially in busy urban areas.
Make eye contact with other road users, but stay alert: they may still misjudge your speed or distance.
Use turn signals every time you change lanes, even with no one around, to keep the habit; signals also make you more visible.
Press the brakes lightly to warn that you are slowing; keep them applied during a temporary stop so the brake light stays on for drivers farther back.
A motorcycle horn is usually quieter than a car horn; use it to warn of danger.
Not signalling your intentions increases the risk of a crash.

Choosing a third of the lane, pp. 101–103

Picture your lane as three equal strips: left, middle and right thirds; no single third suits every situation.
Choose the third that gives you the most visibility, adequate safety margins and the best view of the road; avoid letting a car or another motorcycle ride beside you in your lane.
Left third: used most often; best for passing and left turns; lets you see the vehicle ahead and oncoming traffic; makes you more visible; keeps you away from parked cars; discourages passing vehicles from drifting into your lane.
A rut worn into the left third can collect rainwater and raise the risk of a fall.
Middle third: best in the middle lane of a three-lane highway; keeps space from vehicles passing you; a good choice in strong wind because it leaves room on both sides if a gust pushes you.
Oil collects in the middle third; it becomes very slippery in rain.
Right third: best for right turns; shields you from turbulence of heavy vehicles passing you or coming the other way; safest at the top of a hill when you can't see oncoming traffic.
The right third can also have a rut; use the same care.

Group riding

Group size, the zigzag formation required by the Highway Safety Code, two-second gaps, and the roles of the lead, less experienced and sweep riders.

Practise Group riding questions Flashcards Official chapter

Group riding, pp. 103–105

Make sure every member knows the group practices before setting out.
Groups of more than five riders become risky; limit a group to five.
A small group can leave together after a stop and can complete a pass or lane change at the same time.
Highway Safety Code s. 483: motorcycles, mopeds and motorized scooters riding in groups of two or more in one lane must ride in zigzag (staggered) formation.
Zigzag formation: odd-numbered riders in the left third, even-numbered riders in the right third, each keeping two seconds from the bike ahead in the same third.
Increase the gaps when weather, traffic or the road surface call for it.
Define each rider's role, the communication signals and the passing procedure before the ride.
Position 1, the lead rider, is experienced: knows and explains the route, assigns roles, sets the signals, picks a speed suited to every rider's skill, anticipates and signals risks.
Positions 2 and 4 are less experienced riders who follow the leader's instructions.
Positions 3 and 5 are experienced sweep riders who carry out the leader's manoeuvres first and help and advise the less experienced riders.

Intersections, highways, passing and parking

Turning at intersections, curves on the road, merging onto and exiting highways, passing, parking at 45 degrees, and manoeuvres prohibited for motorcycles.

Practise Intersections, highways, passing and parking questions Flashcards Official chapter

Manoeuvres on the road, pp. 106–110

At high speed (100 km/h) your field of vision shrinks and it is harder to see the whole roadway; obey the limit and ride within your abilities.
Many crashes happen at intersections, often because the rider didn't see others or wasn't visible to them.
Turning at an intersection: slow down; scan, check mirrors and the blind spot on the side you are turning to; signal and make yourself visible; choose the best third; look toward the exit of the turn; keep your margins; then choose the right third, resume speed and cancel the signal.
Curves: many crashes come from not adapting speed; on successive curves don't accelerate out of each one.
In a curve: head up, look far ahead to the exit, pick the right third for a safe path, slow down before the curve, hold a constant speed in it, stay away from the centre of the road, then resume speed gradually.

Highways and passing, pp. 111–116

Merging onto a highway: on the ramp scan, check mirrors and the left blind spot and turn on the left signal; in the acceleration lane accelerate gradually to traffic speed; merge before the end of the dotted line into the left third of the lane; cancel the signal.
Exiting a highway: check mirrors and the right blind spot, signal right, and don't slow down until you are in the deceleration lane; then slow gradually to the posted speed; in the off-ramp take the left third and cancel the signal.
Pass only when the vehicle ahead is too slow (a tractor, a vehicle about to turn) and you are sure it is safe; never exceed the speed limit while passing.
On a two-way road judge the distance and time needed; if in doubt, don't pass.
Passing: assess the speed of vehicles ahead and oncoming, do all visual checks, make sure you have room for your margins, signal left and shoulder check; accelerate firmly within the limit; signal right, return to your lane when there is room, ride in the left third and cancel the signal.

Parking and prohibited manoeuvres, pp. 116–118

Park in the middle of the space at a 45-degree angle, pointed toward traffic, with the rear wheel as close as possible to the curb; this makes the bike visible and helps you see traffic when leaving.
Parking: signal, check, slow down, stop about one metre from the curb just before the next space's line; select neutral, check again, back the bike until the rear tire touches the curb; cancel the signal, turn off the engine and put down the side stand.
Prohibited: riding between two rows of vehicles in adjacent lanes (lane splitting); riding between the shoulder and a vehicle in the same lane; riding between moving traffic and parked vehicles in the same lane.

Heavy vehicles, emergency vehicles, pedestrians and pitfalls

Heavy vehicles, emergency vehicles and the Move Over Law, pedestrians, cyclists, and the road pitfalls: blocked views, left-turners, misleading signals, parked cars, animals and railway crossings.

Practise Heavy vehicles, emergency vehicles, pedestrians and pitfalls questions Flashcards Official chapter

Heavy vehicles, pp. 119–120

Avoid riding near heavy vehicles or passing them unnecessarily.
Heavy vehicles have large blind spots, throw wind gusts, water or mud, create turbulence at speed, need more distance to brake, start slowly at lights and need lots of room to turn.
Near a heavy vehicle: check whether you are in a blind spot, make eye contact with the driver, signal early, increase margins front, rear and sides, leave room for turns, and pick the third of the lane farthest from it.

Emergency vehicles and the Move Over Law, p. 120

Emergency vehicles in Québec include police cruisers, fire trucks, ambulances and Contrôle routier Québec vehicles.
With flashing or rotating lights and sirens on, they have the right of way, travel fast and can appear suddenly.
When you hear a siren, check your mirrors to find it, signal to show you've seen it and pull to the side to let it pass.
Never follow an emergency vehicle closely.
Move Over Law (buffer lane): when an emergency vehicle, tow truck or similar vehicle is stopped with its yellow arrow, rotating or flashing lights on, slow down and change lanes if possible.

Pedestrians and cyclists, pp. 121–122

Inattention and distraction cause many crashes with vulnerable road users, who have no physical protection.
Be especially alert at intersections, in residential and commercial areas and in school zones, and slow down there.
Pedestrians have the right of way at crosswalks and at intersections with green or pedestrian lights; they are hard to see at night or in rain, can be unpredictable and may misjudge your speed.
At a crosswalk, if a pedestrian steps onto it or clearly shows they intend to cross, you must stop and let them cross.
Don't stop your motorcycle on a crosswalk; keep a margin from pedestrians; make eye contact and wave them across.
Cyclists usually ride on the right, can make sudden moves and are slower than you.
Around cyclists: scan the roadsides, check mirrors and blind spots, make eye contact, avoid the horn (it can startle them) and keep your margins.

Pitfalls of the road, pp. 123–127

Obstructed view at an intersection: slow down and make sure you are visible.
Never place yourself on the right side of a heavy vehicle that is turning right.
An oncoming driver turning left may not have done visual checks or seen your small motorcycle; never assume they will act as you expect; make eye contact.
A driver waving you through may not have seen another road user such as a cyclist behind them; always do your own checks.
Avoid riding near heavy vehicles; stay out of their blind spots and away from their turbulence.
On a street with parked cars, expect a door opening, a pedestrian stepping out or a car pulling out; ride in the left third.
Watch for animal warning signs; if you see an animal on or beside the road, slow down; animals react unpredictably.
Railway rails are slippery, especially when wet; slow down as you approach a crossing.
Tracks roughly perpendicular to the road: cross straight without changing course.
Tracks at an angle: adjust your path to cross as close to a right angle as possible, often by moving to the right third first, then back to the left third after crossing.

Rider risks: age, emotions, fatigue and impairment

Age, motivations, emotions, peer influence and overconfidence, distraction, fatigue, alcohol, drugs and medication, and risky departures.

Practise Rider risks: age, emotions, fatigue and impairment questions Flashcards Official chapter

Risks related to the rider, pp. 131–135

Many crashes come from driver behaviour and could be avoided; a competent rider evaluates every risk.
Three kinds of risk affect road safety: risks related to the driver, to driving conditions, and to the vehicle.
Drivers aged 16 to 24 commit more offences and have more crashes than older drivers (SAAQ road safety report 2021).
Ageing can reduce muscle strength, coordination, balance, concentration and memory.
Riding to impress others or for the thrill of speed raises risk and leads to more dangerous manoeuvres.
Your personality shows in how you ride; an impatient person may react badly in a traffic jam.
Emotions can impair concentration and judgment and slow perception and reaction; fatigue and stress intensify them.
Plan ahead, use less crowded roads and admit when you overreacted; leaving at the last minute adds stress.
Lack of tolerance shows as tailgating, speeding and abrupt stops and starts; the best response to aggressive behaviour is to ignore it.
Some young drivers drive faster and follow closer when with friends their age.
A novice who can't keep up with the group should not exceed their limits; let the others go and catch up later.
Overconfidence makes unsafe manoeuvres seem safe; discuss fears with your instructor and respect your limits.
Distractions can't be avoided completely but must be managed.
Looking away for 4 to 6 seconds at 90 km/h is like covering a football field with your eyes closed.

Fatigue, pp. 135–136

Fatigue raises crash risk as much as alcohol does, and is one of the leading causes of death on the roads.
Lack of sleep builds a sleep deficit at any age; fatigue reduces vigilance and alters reflexes and judgment.
Early signs: yawning, irritated eyes, trouble staying in the right third of the lane, staring at a fixed point.
Sleep at least seven to eight hours before a long trip and take regular breaks to stretch.
The only remedy for fatigue is enough sleep.
After several short nights, your reaction time may be up to twice as long and your dexterity reduced.

Alcohol, drugs and medication, pp. 137–138

Alcohol, drugs and both over-the-counter and prescription medication affect judgment, coordination, reflexes and perception.
Mixing alcohol and drugs greatly multiplies crash risk.
Learn a medication's effects and the maker's warnings before riding.
Faculties a rider needs: vision, concentration, judgment, balance and coordination; even small amounts of alcohol or drugs can affect them.
Effects on riding: reduced peripheral vision, staring at a fixed point, underestimating hazards, overestimating your ability, slower decisions and reactions, poorer judgment of other vehicles' speed and distance, poorer balance and trouble working controls together.

Avoiding a premature departure, pp. 152–156

Only time removes alcohol; a cold shower or black coffee doesn't; energy drinks mask drowsiness but faculties stay impaired.
Many crashes happen within 20 km of the starting point; a short trip is no excuse.
At the start of the season, ease back into riding before planning a long trip.
Borrowing an unfamiliar motorcycle is risky; practise in a safe area first.
Wear full protective gear even in a heat wave; hot-weather riding gear exists.
After bad news, a strong emotional state can distract you enough to run a stop sign; consider not riding.
Riding with a reckless rider can influence how you ride.

Weather, road conditions, extra weight and trip planning

Heat, rain, fog, night and wind, heavy traffic, gravel, rough and slippery roads, the motorcycle's condition, passengers and baggage, and planning trips.

Practise Weather, road conditions, extra weight and trip planning questions Flashcards Official chapter

Weather and time of day, pp. 139–143

Even on a sunny day and a short trip, make sure you are seen, obey limits and keep margins; wear full gear and drink water regularly in the heat.
Rain tires and chills you, makes the road slippery and cuts visibility; water between brake discs and pads reduces braking.
Dry the brakes regularly in rain by gently applying both brakes while riding with the throttle slightly open.
Gloves with a chamois patch help wipe the visor; avoid puddles, which can hide potholes and cause hydroplaning.
Fog is most frequent at sunrise or sunset or when the temperature changes; it greatly cuts visibility and makes it hard for others to judge your distance.
It is better not to ride in rain or fog; you may pull over to a safe spot and wait, making yourself visible (hazard lights if fitted).
Don't speed up in fog to keep sight of the tail lights ahead or because someone follows closely.
In fog: slow down, check more often, increase margins, wear light or bright gear with reflective strips, use the low beam, choose the safest third, keep the visor clean.
At night it is harder to be seen and to judge others' speed and distance; it is safer not to ride.
At night: slow down, scan more, increase margins, use the high beam to be more visible, ride in the third where you see and are seen, avoid passing, don't stare at oncoming headlights.
Highway Safety Code s. 425: switch to low beams within 150 m of a vehicle ahead or an oncoming vehicle, or on a well-lit road.
Wind can strike suddenly, especially on a light motorcycle; crosswinds can push you out of your lane; trees, heavy vehicles and overpasses briefly block it.
Loose or oversized gear amplifies the wind's effect.
In strong wind: slow down, increase margins, hold the bars firmly, countersteer lightly against the wind, ride in the middle third.

Traffic and road conditions, pp. 143–145

In work zones or habitually heavy traffic, increase your margins; heavy traffic demands constant vigilance.
Dirt and gravel give less traction; the bars and front wheel may wobble; stay relaxed and don't fight it; avoid sudden braking.
Before gravel, slow down by braking while still on pavement; on it keep a reduced speed, hold firmly with relaxed arms and wrists, rise slightly and shift weight back, avoid abrupt moves and increase margins.
On rough roads: slow down, hold firmly, grip the tank with your knees, look far ahead, avoid bumps, debris and potholes; after hitting one, stop and check tires and rims.
Seasonal slippery surfaces: spring sand and gravel, summer downpours and oil, fall leaves and cold pavement.
Metal bridge decks, wet painted lines and sealed cracks can be very slippery; avoid lanes where water collects.
Loss of traction shows most when braking, accelerating, turning or in curves; slow before a slippery curve to limit lean.
On a slippery surface: slow down before it, hold firmly, avoid abrupt moves and sudden braking, increase margins.

The vehicle: condition and extra weight, pp. 146–149

Check before riding: mirrors clean and adjusted; tire wear and pressure (owner's manual); oil and coolant levels and no leaks; lights and turn signals; spokes not bent, cracked or loose; brakes giving firm braking force.
A passenger or baggage changes handling, lengthens braking and reduces acceleration, especially at low speed and in curves.
Before carrying weight: stay under the maximum load, adjust tire pressure, adjust the rear suspension and the headlight height for the sag.
Practise with a load where there's no traffic, and gain experience before carrying a passenger.
A learner's licence holder may not carry a passenger.
With a passenger: proper protective gear, agree on how to communicate, ride slower in curves and on rough roads, start slowing earlier before intersections, increase margins, avoid abrupt moves.
Baggage: keep weight low and centred (weight behind the rear axle affects handling), balance both sides, tie it down with proper bungee cords or a hooked net, and recheck it soon after leaving and regularly.

Planning trips, pp. 150–151

Before every trip, evaluate yourself (tired, stressed, angry, any substances?), the conditions (rain, wind, heat, road work, heavy traffic, rough roads) and the vehicle (unfamiliar bike, mechanical doubts, extra load).
If any answer is yes, postpone, take another means of transport or choose another route.

Helmets and protective gear

Québec helmet law and recognized standards, helmet fit and lifespan, eye protection, jackets, pants, gloves and boots.

Practise Helmets and protective gear questions Flashcards Official chapter

Helmets, pp. 203–204, 212–217

Buy good protective gear from the start; it is the only protection you can count on.
In Québec a helmet is mandatory on a motorcycle, a three-wheeled motorcycle, a moped or motorized scooter and an ATV, and for passengers in a sidecar.
A helmet must meet a recognized standard; DOT is the minimum and the most common in Québec; others recognized include CSA CAN-3-D230, ANSI Z90.1, Snell, British Standards Institute and ECE Regulation 22.
A DOT label is on the outside of the helmet; labels for other standards are on the inside.
A full-face helmet gives the best protection against impact, weather and wind; open-face helmets lead to more severe head injuries and protect the jaw and face less.
A good helmet fits snugly without squeezing and can't shift more than a few millimetres; it shouldn't come off when pulled forward from the back with the strap fastened.
Try a helmet on for about 20 minutes in the store before buying.
Helmets last about three to seven years on average; UV and use degrade them; replace any helmet that took a hard impact, even without visible damage.
Used helmets are not recommended; the purchase date matters more than the manufacturing date.
Light or bright colours (white, yellow, orange) or contrasting patterns make you easier to see.
Check the chin strap stitching and the lining regularly.
A child under 9 years old or shorter than 145 cm may not be carried in a sidecar.

Eye protection, pp. 207–209

If your helmet has no visor, protective eyewear is mandatory in Québec.
A windshield is not adequate eye protection.
Tinted or iridescent visors are not recommended and are especially risky at night; the best choice is a clear visor plus good sunglasses.
Clean visors with lukewarm water and soap and a non-abrasive cloth; avoid alcohol-based glass cleaners.
Riding goggles should fit closely, have flexible frames (not metal) and plastic (organic) rather than mineral lenses, and not block your shoulder checks.

Clothing, gloves and boots, pp. 205–211

Jacket and pants: snug fit, leather or abrasion-resistant material such as Kevlar or Cordura, armour at elbows, shoulders, back, knees and hips, strong seams, ideally light or bright with reflective strips.
Avoid some synthetics such as polyester or nylon, which can burn skin in a fall.
Inflatable jackets inflate instantly if you are thrown from the motorcycle.
Gloves: leather or abrasion-resistant material, cover hands and wrists, reinforced palms and joints, supple enough to work the controls; gloves that are too short or tight make fingers colder.
Leather at least 0.9 mm thick resists abrasion for about 2.5 seconds in a fall; boot leather at least 2.5 mm thick for about 5 seconds.
Boots: cover feet and ankles, ideally up to the shin, abrasion-resistant, reinforced toes and soles, grippy soles; avoid steel-toed boots, which could sever toes on impact.
At the start of each season, have the motorcycle fully inspected (chain, belt, battery, filters, fork, shocks, coolant, wheels, nuts and bolts).

Written in our own words from: Operating a Motorcycle

FAQ

Québec Class 6 Motorcycle study guide: common questions

What is the best way to use this Québec Class 6 Motorcycle study guide?

Read one topic, then answer that topic's practice questions while the rules are fresh. Note the questions you miss, re-read those notes, and finish with a full practice test across all 15 topics.

Is this the official Québec Class 6 Motorcycle handbook?

No. It is our own summary of the Operating a Motorcycle. Use it to review, and use the official handbook when you need the exact wording of a rule.

Can I print the study guide?

Yes, with your browser's print command. For practice questions on paper with an answer key, use our printable questions and answers page instead.