BC Class 6 / 8 Motorcycle overview

BC Class 6 / 8 Motorcycle study guide: key rules on all 18 topics

Free BC Class 6 / 8 Motorcycle study guide: 683 key points from the Learn to Ride Smart in plain words, organised by topic, each topic linked to its practice questions.

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  • 18 topics
  • 683 key points
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This study guide collects our notes on every topic of the ICBC Motorcycle Knowledge Test (Class 6L / 8L) on one page: 683 short points in our own words, grouped by topic and by handbook section. Read it from top to bottom before your first practice test, or jump to a topic from the list below.

Each topic ends with a link to its practice questions, so you can check what you just read straight away, and a link to the official chapter for the full wording. The notes summarise the Learn to Ride Smart from the ICBC (Insurance Corporation of British Columbia); they do not replace it, and where our notes and the official source differ, the official source wins.

Study these notes as flashcards →

Regulatory, school and lane signs

Stop, yield and speed signs, do-not-enter and one-way signs, school, playground and crosswalk signs, lane use and turn control signs, parking signs and reserved lane signs.

Practise Regulatory, school and lane signs questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Reading signs

  • You can read a sign three ways: by its shape, by its colour and by the words or symbols on it; knowing all three helps you work out a sign you have never seen.
  • School zone signs are fluorescent yellow-green.
  • Sign families in the guide: stop, yield, riding and driving rules, lane use, motorist services, permitted actions, actions that are not allowed, hazards ahead, construction zones, railway crossings, and distance and direction.

Regulatory signs

  • Regulatory signs state the law; ignoring one is an offence under the B.C. Motor Vehicle Act and can bring a penalty.
  • Stop sign: come to a complete stop and go on only when it is safe.
  • Yield sign: let other vehicles and crossing pedestrians go first.
  • Maximum speed sign: the top legal speed when the road is bare and dry and you can see well; slow down below it in poor conditions.
  • A separate sign warns that a lower speed limit is coming up.
  • Do not enter (do not go this way) signs are usually posted on exit ramps.
  • One way sign: shows which way traffic moves on the cross street.
  • Winter tire sign: winter tires or chains are required while the sign is displayed.
  • Keep right sign: stay to the right of the divider or island.
  • No stopping sign: no stopping from this sign to the next one; a version with times applies only during the posted times.
  • No bicycles sign: no bicycle riding past the sign.
  • No right turn on red: you may not turn right while the light is red.
  • Disaster response route sign: stay off the road during a major disaster; it may be kept for emergency vehicles.
  • Slower traffic sign: if you are moving slower than regular traffic, move into the right lane.
  • Do not pass sign, two-way traffic sign (keep right unless passing) and keep right except to pass sign.
  • Slow vehicle pullout signs: slow vehicles use pullouts for the stated distance; a pullout can be posted a stated number of metres ahead; a sign can say that slow traffic holding up 5 vehicles must use the pullout.
  • Passing lane ahead sign: a passing lane is coming up.

School, playground and crosswalk signs

  • School zone sign with a tab: the tab gives the speed limit and the hours; the guide's example is 30 km/h from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on school days.
  • If the school zone tab shows only a speed and no hours, the limit applies from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on school days.
  • A 50 km/h school zone limit applies 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on school days when children are on the road or shoulder.
  • School zone sign with no tab: slow down when children are present.
  • Playground zone: 30 km/h limit every day from dawn to dusk.
  • Playground nearby sign: be ready to slow down.
  • Pedestrian-activated crosswalk sign: get ready to stop if its light is flashing.
  • Pedestrian crosswalk sign: yield to people crossing.
  • School crosswalk sign: yield to pedestrians and follow a crossing guard's directions if one is there.
  • When you pass the back of the school zone sign on the other side of the street, the 30 km/h zone has ended (p. 92).

Lane use signs

  • Lane use signs hang over the lane or stand beside it before the intersection.
  • If you are in a lane marked by arrows, you must go the way the arrows show.
  • You may not move into or out of a designated lane while you are in the intersection.
  • Examples: left turn only, straight only, straight or left, straight or right, both directions must turn left (no through traffic), and both marked lanes must turn left.

Turn control signs

  • Turn control signs are mounted right above the intersection; you must follow the arrow.
  • Examples: straight only with no turns, turn right or left only, no right turn during posted times, left turn only.

Parking signs

  • Parking signs show where and when you may park; parking illegally can bring a fine, a tow, or both.
  • Disabled parking sign: only for vehicles that display the disabled parking permit and carry a person with a disability.
  • Other examples: time-limited parking during posted times, no parking at any time, and no parking during posted times.

Reserved lane signs

  • A white diamond on the road surface marks a reserved lane.
  • Reserved lane signs over or beside the lane show who may use it, such as buses or high occupancy vehicles (HOVs); an HOV sign may give the minimum number of people.
  • A sign can warn that the curb lane of the cross street ahead is reserved.

Warning, construction and railway signs

Yellow diamond warning signs, object markers, orange construction signs, information and destination signs, and the signs that warn of a railway crossing.

Practise Warning, construction and railway signs questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Warning signs

  • Most warning signs are yellow diamonds; they warn of a possible hazard ahead.
  • Winding road ahead.
  • Sharp curve ahead with a speed tab: slow to the suggested speed.
  • Curve ahead: slow down.
  • Signal lights ahead; a version with flashing lights tells you to prepare to stop when the lights are flashing.
  • Hidden side road ahead.
  • Merging traffic ahead.
  • Right lane ends ahead.
  • Added lane: another road joins with its own lane on the right.
  • Divided highway ends ahead: keep right.
  • Two-way traffic ahead; road narrows ahead; narrow structure (often a bridge) ahead.
  • Bump or rough road ahead.
  • Slippery road ahead (shown with skid marks).
  • Steep hill ahead: slow down.
  • Stop sign ahead; roundabout ahead.

More warning signs

  • Pedestrian crosswalk ahead.
  • School crosswalk ahead: this sign is fluorescent yellow-green.
  • School bus stop ahead; cyclists may be on the road.
  • Fire truck entrance ahead; truck crossing ahead.
  • Recommended exit speed: ride slower than this in poor conditions.
  • Pavement ends ahead.
  • Watch for deer ahead; opening bridge ahead; watch for rocks on the road ahead.
  • Remove sunglasses, snow shed ahead, tunnel ahead and use headlights ahead signs.

Object markers

  • Object markers are mounted on obstructions; pay close attention to them.
  • A hazard marker can show which side to pass on: keep right, keep left, or either side.
  • A hazard or danger ahead marker can tell you to turn right or left.

Construction signs

  • Construction signs warn of road work and maintenance; you must obey them.
  • In a work zone: obey traffic-control persons, stay within the posted speed, keep well back from equipment and pass only when it is safe.
  • Signs include construction ahead, detour ahead, traffic-control person ahead, crew working (obey the posted speed), survey crew (obey the posted speed), and soft shoulder ahead (stay off the shoulder).
  • A lighted arrow board means follow the direction of the arrow.
  • Blasting ahead: follow the instructions on the sign.
  • An end of construction zone speed limit sign marks where the work zone limit stops.
  • A sign can give notice of the fine for speeding in a work zone.

Information and destination signs

  • These signs give destinations, route numbers and services.
  • On destination signs, distances are in kilometres.
  • Examples: directional sign, Trans-Canada Highway route marker, primary highway marker, hospital nearby, gas available, accommodation ahead and travel information ahead.

Railway signs

  • Public railway crossings are marked with signs or pavement markings and may have mechanical or electric warning devices.
  • You must always yield to trains.
  • Railway crossing ahead sign: be ready to stop.
  • Railway crossing on a side road ahead: be ready to stop.
  • Railway crossing sign with a stop sign: stop, then go when it is safe.
  • Crossing with a gate: stay stopped until the gate is fully raised.

Traffic lights, lane signals and road markings

Steady, flashing and arrow traffic lights, the transit priority signal, lane control signals, and yellow, white, reserved lane and other pavement markings.

Practise Traffic lights, lane signals and road markings questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Lane control signals

  • Lane control signals hang over lanes and show which lanes are open.
  • A green arrow means you may ride in the lane; a red X means do not ride in it.
  • A flashing yellow X means move out of the lane and into one with a green arrow.
  • If the signals over every lane are flashing yellow, slow down and go with caution.

Traffic lights

  • In general, red means stop, yellow means caution and green means go; flashing lights and arrows change the meaning.
  • In some places green arrows flash and in others they do not.
  • Steady red: stop; after a full stop you may turn right, or turn left onto a one-way street, unless a sign forbids it.
  • Steady yellow: slow down and stop before the intersection unless you cannot stop safely in time.
  • Steady green: go only if the intersection is clear.
  • Flashing red: stop, then go only when it is safe.
  • Flashing yellow: slow down and go with caution.
  • Flashing green: a pedestrian-controlled light; go only if the intersection is clear.
  • Green arrow: turn the way the arrow points.
  • Green straight-ahead arrow: no turns; go straight through only.
  • Flashing green arrow with a steady green light: you may turn the way of the arrow or go straight.
  • Flashing green arrow with a steady red light: left turns allowed; through traffic must stop for the red.
  • Yellow arrow: the advance left-turn signal is about to change; slow down and stop unless you cannot stop safely.
  • Transit priority signal: a steady white rectangle; only buses may go on it.
  • If traffic lights fail (dark or all flashing), treat the intersection as a four-way stop (p. 49).

Road markings

  • Road markings warn or direct you; they are painted on the road, curbs or other surfaces.
  • It is illegal to ride over freshly painted, wet pavement markings.

Yellow lines

  • Yellow lines separate traffic going in opposite directions; with a yellow line on your left, traffic on the other side is coming toward you.
  • Broken yellow line: passing is allowed when it is safe.
  • Broken line beside a solid line: you may pass only when it is safe and the broken line is on your side.
  • Double solid yellow line: no passing.
  • Single solid yellow line: passing is allowed but with extra caution (p. 60 calls passing over it risky).
  • Double broken yellow lines: a reversible lane; lane control signals show whether you may use it.
  • Two-way left-turn lane: shared by traffic from both directions for left turns; the markings can also be drawn with the solid lines inside the broken ones.

White lines

  • White lines separate lanes going the same way; they also mark crosswalks, stopping positions and the right shoulder of highways.
  • Solid white line: do not change lanes.
  • Broken white line: you may change lanes when it is safe.
  • Stop line: stop before the line.
  • Crosswalk lines: stop for pedestrians in the crosswalk.
  • Some pedestrian-activated crosswalks have lights in the pavement; stop for pedestrians in the crosswalk.

Reserved lane and other markings

  • HOV lanes are marked with thick solid or broken lines and white diamonds.
  • Reserved lane markings: extra signs or markings say which vehicles may use the lane.
  • Bicycle lane: for cyclists only; marked with a bicycle outline and sometimes a diamond; cyclists ride the same direction as the traffic beside them.
  • Arrow markings in a lane: e.g., vehicles in this lane must turn left, or must go straight or turn left.
  • Painted island: keep to the right of it and do not ride on or over it.

Choosing a motorcycle and riding gear

Picking a motorcycle that fits you, the types of motorcycles, approved helmets, eye and face protection, riding clothing, high-visibility gear, gloves and boots.

Practise Choosing a motorcycle and riding gear questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Choosing a motorcycle

  • Pick a motorcycle you can control: your feet should reach the ground when you straddle it, and you should be able to push it back and forth and keep it balanced.
  • Match the motorcycle to your skill; a learner may start on a small motorcycle and trade up later.
  • Think about your riding goals: commuting and long trips usually call for different motorcycles.
  • Before buying, research models, ask experienced riders and visit dealers.

Types of motorcycles

  • Cruiser: custom styling, pulled-back handlebars and a stepped seat; upright or laid-back riding position.
  • Sport: street-legal versions of racing motorcycles, built to be quick and agile; sport touring adds comfort for distance and passengers.
  • Touring: heavy motorcycles for long trips, usually with fairings and a windshield and a large cargo capacity; upright posture.
  • Dual-purpose: mixes off-road features with street-legal ones; more rugged with higher ground clearance.
  • Standard: general-purpose motorcycles that suit learners; upright posture and room for a passenger.
  • Motor scooter: engine under the rider, usually automatic, with a platform for the feet; most are 50 cc but some are much larger.
  • Moped: 50 cc or smaller, with pedals to help the engine on hills.
  • Off-road: not legal on the street; they lack full lighting and horns and have no emission controls.

Helmets

  • Riding gear protects you from weather and injury, makes you visible and keeps you comfortable.
  • About one in five motorcycle crashes causes head or neck injuries to the rider; a helmet is the most important factor in preventing or reducing them.
  • In B.C., every rider and every passenger must wear an approved motorcycle safety helmet.
  • The only exemption is for Sikh riders with unshorn hair who wear a full turban.
  • An approved helmet carries a label showing it meets DOT, Snell M2005, Snell M2010 or ECE standards.
  • A full-face helmet gives the best crash protection and also blocks wind, dust, rain, insects and debris; it is the only type that protects the face.
  • Choose a bright colour (white is very visible) and add reflective tape to the sides and back.
  • A helmet should fit snugly all around without moving, but not be too tight; padding can compress over time.
  • Avoid used helmets: crash damage may not be visible.
  • Replace a helmet after a crash and every few years because the materials deteriorate.
  • Studies show a helmet does not reduce your hearing or alertness; it can even cut wind and engine noise.

Eye and face protection

  • Wind can make your eyes water and hide hazards; insects and debris can injure your eyes and face.
  • Eyeglasses and sunglasses are not enough protection because they can fly off, move or shatter.
  • Most windshields do not protect your eyes or face well enough.
  • The best protection is a full-face helmet with a built-in face shield.
  • With an open helmet you need goggles; goggles do not protect the rest of the face; wear goggles over glasses.
  • Choose a scratch- and impact-resistant shield that gives a clear view to the sides, fastens securely and lets air flow to prevent fogging.
  • Tinted shields are unsafe at night or in rain.
  • Contact lenses can irritate your eyes when riding; carry your glasses.

Clothing

  • Good clothing gives some protection in a crash and keeps you warm, dry and alert.
  • Wear clothing made for motorcycling, in layers; jeans give only minimum protection; never ride in lightweight pants or shorts.
  • Jackets and pants should fit snugly and not balloon out in the wind.
  • Leather and quality synthetics such as Kevlar and Cordura nylon resist abrasion; body armour helps reduce impact injuries.
  • Sleeve and leg cuffs should be long and snug enough to keep out wind and rain.
  • A good rainsuit does not balloon or tear at speed and fits over your riding gear.
  • Even on warm days, wind from riding can chill you toward hypothermia; wear a jacket even on very hot days to prevent dehydration.

High-visibility clothing

  • A high-visibility garment makes you easier to see by day and by night.
  • Examples: jackets or rainsuits with built-in fluorescent panels, work safety vests, and motorcycle safety vests.

Gloves and footwear

  • Wear gloves made for motorcycling: they protect your hands while allowing precise control.
  • Gloves should be abrasion-resistant (leather or Kevlar on palms and knuckles), cover your wrists and overlap your jacket sleeves.
  • You may need separate gloves for summer and for cold or wet riding.
  • Boots should cover your ankles, have slip-resistant, flexible soles and low heels that will not catch on controls.
  • Leather gives the best protection but is not waterproof; waterproof overboots may be needed.
  • Tuck laces in so they cannot tangle in the motorcycle.

Budgeting

  • Budget for the motorcycle, gear (the best helmet you can afford), insurance and licensing, licence and test fees, running costs and training.
  • Insurance costs depend on engine size and coverage.

Controls, riding posture and pre-trip check

Handlebar and foot controls, the instrument panel, mirrors, ignition and fuel valve positions, stands, riding posture, the pre-trip check, tire care and periodic inspection.

Practise Controls, riding posture and pre-trip check questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Getting to know your motorcycle

  • You need to work every control without taking your eyes off the road; check your owner's manual because every motorcycle differs.

Left handlebar controls

  • Clutch lever (left hand): squeezing it disconnects the engine from the transmission; releasing it reconnects them.
  • You use the clutch to change gears, to select neutral and in some slow-speed manoeuvres.
  • On most motor scooters, the left lever works the rear brake instead of a clutch.
  • Turn signal switch: worked with the thumb; most motorcycle signals do not cancel on their own, so you must cancel them.
  • High/low beam switch: worked with the left thumb; most motorcycles turn the headlight on automatically when the engine runs.
  • Horn button: worked with the thumb; an important way to warn others.
  • Choke or enrichener: helps start a cold engine; turn it on to start and gradually off as the engine warms.

Right handlebar controls

  • Engine cut-off switch: stops the engine at once in an emergency; it must be on before you can start the engine.
  • Electric starter: use it after turning on the ignition, with the transmission in neutral.
  • Front brake lever: squeezed with the right-hand fingers; it brakes the front wheel.
  • The rear brake is usually a foot pedal.
  • Linked brakes: using either brake control applies both front and rear brakes.

Throttle and instrument panel

  • The right grip is the throttle: roll it toward you to speed up, away from you to slow the engine.
  • The throttle should snap back to idle when you let go.
  • Speedometer shows speed; odometer shows total distance; tripmeter shows distance since reset.
  • Tachometer shows engine speed in revolutions per minute.
  • Neutral light is usually green; high beam indicator is usually blue.
  • Alternator warning light shows whether the battery is charging.
  • A red oil pressure light warns of low oil pressure; it does not show the oil level, which you check with the dipstick or sight window.

Mirrors and ignition

  • Most motorcycle mirrors are convex: they show a wider area but make things look smaller and farther away than they are.
  • Adjust each mirror so you see the lane behind and as much of the other lanes as possible, with the edge of your arm showing.
  • Ignition positions: Park (tail light on, engine off, key removable, not on every motorcycle), On, Acc (power for accessories with the engine off), Off, and Lock (steering locked to help prevent theft).

Fuel supply valve and ABS

  • A fuel supply valve controls fuel flow to the carburetor; fuel-injected motorcycles do not have one.
  • Valve positions: On, Reserve (when reserve runs out the tank is empty) and Off; vacuum-valve motorcycles have Prime instead of Off.
  • If you forget to turn the valve on, the motorcycle may start but will soon stall.
  • ABS gives more control on varied surfaces but does not always shorten your stopping distance.
  • If the ABS light stays on after start-up, have the system checked.

Foot controls and stands

  • Rear brake pedal: usually in front of the right footpeg, pressed with the right foot.
  • In normal riding you use the front and rear brakes together.
  • Integrated brakes: pressing the rear brake firmly also applies the front brake.
  • Gearshift lever: in front of the left footpeg, worked with the left foot, always together with the clutch.
  • Most motorcycles have five or six gears plus neutral.
  • Kick-starter (if fitted): behind the right footpeg; fold it out to use and back afterward.
  • Stands: side stand, centre stand, or both; a centre stand lifts the rear wheel for maintenance.
  • Park the stand on firm ground so it does not sink.
  • A side-stand switch may stop the engine if you select a gear with the side stand down.
  • Never ride off a stand; push the motorcycle off it first and make sure it is fully up, or it can dig in when you turn.
  • Adjust the rear brake pedal and gearshift lever to fit you.

Riding posture

  • Sit far enough forward that your arms are slightly bent and your back is straight.
  • Grip the handgrips firmly with your wrists flat or slightly dropped so you do not roll the throttle on by accident.
  • Keep your knees close to the gas tank for balance in turns.
  • Keep your feet on the footpegs while moving, angled out slightly with heels just behind the pegs, ready for the brake or shifter.

Pre-trip check

  • Check the motorcycle every time before you ride, even in a hurry.
  • Tires: correct pressure checked cold, at least weekly if you ride regularly; even tread; no cuts, bulges or embedded objects.
  • Wheels: spokes not loose or broken; cast (mag) wheels and rims free of cracks or damage.
  • Drive system: chain tension and lubrication, belt tension and wear, or shaft oil leaks.
  • Electrical: tail light, both headlight beams, brake light from both controls, both turn signals, horn and engine cut-off switch.
  • Do not ride if the horn is not working.
  • Fluids: oil, coolant (liquid-cooled engines), fuel, and no leaks under the motorcycle.
  • Clutch cable moves smoothly; throttle snaps back; mirrors clean, adjusted and tight; both brakes firm.
  • Pre-trip planning: route, time, weather forecast, light conditions, road conditions and the return trip.
  • Periodic inspection: weekly if you ride often (brakes, steering, wheels, cables, levers, drive system, fasteners, fluids, battery, suspension, bodywork).

Tire tips

  • You cannot judge tire pressure by looking; use a gauge while the tires are cool and adjust for the load you carry.
  • Replace tires with bumps, bulges, cuts, cracks or exposed material, and when the wear bar shows or sooner.
  • Use tires that meet your motorcycle's specifications; front and rear must be compatible and installed in the right direction.
  • A new tire has a shiny finish that reduces grip; ride cautiously for up to about 200 km while it wears off.
  • Sudden starts and stops shorten tire life.

Riding and the environment

  • Motorcycles use about half the fuel of comparable cars and about a quarter of the road space.
  • Motorcycles face looser emission standards than cars; older ones can produce up to 15 times more emissions per kilometre than an average new car.
  • Smooth, safe riding can cut fuel use by up to 30 per cent.
  • Turn the engine off if you will be stopped for more than 60 seconds; check tire pressure at least monthly because under-inflation raises fuel use.

Intersections and right-of-way

When to signal, uncontrolled and controlled intersections, where to stop, stale and fresh green lights, left turns, two-way and four-way stops, yield signs, traffic circles and roundabouts.

Practise Intersections and right-of-way questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Intersections, pp. 47–48

  • Signal before turning left or right, changing lanes, parking, and moving toward or away from the side of the road.
  • A controlled intersection has signs or lights; an uncontrolled one has neither and is usually in a low-traffic area.
  • At an uncontrolled intersection: slow down, scan left to right, and yield to anyone who got there first.
  • Two vehicles reaching an uncontrolled intersection together: the one on the left yields to the one on the right.
  • An unmarked T-intersection is handled like any other uncontrolled intersection.
  • A traffic control person's directions must be followed.
  • Going straight and a vehicle is already in the intersection turning left: let it finish.
  • Stopping position: just before the stop line; with no stop line, just before the nearest crosswalk (marked or unmarked); with no line, crosswalk or sidewalk, just before entering the intersection.

Traffic lights and right-of-way, pp. 49–51

  • Right-of-way is given, not taken; even when others should yield, you must still do all you can to avoid a crash.
  • Steady red: full stop and wait for green to go straight; after stopping and checking, a right turn, or a left turn onto a one-way street, is allowed unless a sign forbids it.
  • Steady green: go only if the intersection is clear and safe.
  • A stale green has been on a long time; clues are a long line of cross traffic waiting or a pedestrian signal showing an orange hand or a countdown.
  • Point of no return: as you near a stale green, pick the spot past which you can no longer stop safely; once past it, keep going if the light turns yellow.
  • Fresh green: scan the intersection before moving.
  • Steady yellow: stop before entering unless you cannot stop safely.
  • Already in the intersection waiting to turn left when the light turns yellow: you may legally complete the turn, watching for drivers rushing the red.
  • Left turn on a green ball: yield to oncoming traffic and wait for a safe gap.
  • Flashing green: pedestrians can push the button to change the signal; side-street traffic faces a stop sign and may enter after stopping.
  • Separate left-turn signal: a green arrow lets you turn; once it turns yellow, stop and wait for the next arrow.
  • Advance flashing green arrow on the main lights: turn left while oncoming traffic faces red; after the arrow ends you may still turn on green but must yield to pedestrians and oncoming traffic. Some advance arrows run only at peak hours.
  • Flashing red: full stop, then go when clear and safe.
  • Lights out or all flashing: treat the intersection as a four-way stop.
  • Backing up into an intersection or over a crosswalk is illegal.

Stop signs, yield signs, circles and roundabouts, pp. 51–54

  • A stop sign always requires a complete stop, then a careful check.
  • Two-way stop: the street without stop signs is the through street; yield to its traffic and wait for a safe gap.
  • Two vehicles stopped at a two-way stop: the one turning left yields, unless it has already started its turn in the intersection.
  • Four-way stop: first to stop goes first; arriving at about the same time, the vehicle on the right goes first; facing each other, the left-turner yields to the one going straight.
  • Yield sign: you may enter without stopping if the through road is clear; otherwise slow, stop if needed, and wait for a safe gap.
  • Traffic circle (mostly residential): slow down, obey any signs (no signs = uncontrolled intersection), yield to traffic in the circle, yield to a vehicle on your right arriving at the same time, travel counterclockwise; enter with a right turn and leave with a right turn.
  • Emergency vehicle approaching: don't block a circle or roundabout; stop before entering, or exit and then stop.
  • Roundabouts are larger and may have several lanes; choose your lane before entering and don't change lanes inside.
  • Multi-lane roundabout: left lane to turn left, right lane to turn right, either lane to go straight; if you entered in the left lane, stay in it.
  • In a roundabout: slow down, yield to pedestrians in the approach crosswalk, yield to traffic already inside, go counterclockwise, signal right before your exit, and watch for pedestrians at the exit crosswalk.
  • Don't ride beside trucks or buses in a roundabout; they may need more than one lane. A truck apron around the island helps large vehicles.
  • Pulling out of a driveway, lane or parking lot: stop before the sidewalk area, then yield to road traffic and wait for a safe gap.

Lanes, turns, passing and parking

Choosing a lane, lane tracking for right and left turns, turning lanes, U-turns, HOV, bus and bicycle lanes, passing and merging, freeway entrances and exits, and parking rules.

Practise Lanes, turns, passing and parking questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Choosing a lane and lane tracking, pp. 55–58

  • Pick the lane that gives the best view and gets you where you are going; on a multi-lane highway use a right-hand lane, especially when slower than traffic.
  • Riding at the speed limit is not a reason to stay in the left lane; it invites others to pass on the right.
  • Freeway with three or more lanes each way: use the centre or a right lane and leave the left lane for faster and passing traffic; the centre lane carries extra risk because traffic can merge into it from both sides.
  • Lane tracking means being in the correct lane before a turn and finishing in the correct lane after it; lane position is the part of the lane you ride in.
  • Right turn: move to the right part of the right lane, then turn into the right lane of the cross street.
  • Left turn, two-way to two-way: from the lane nearest the centre into the lane nearest the centre of the cross street.
  • Left turn, two-way to one-way: from the centre-side lane into the left lane; one-way to two-way: from the left lane into the centre-side lane; one-way to one-way: left lane to left lane.
  • Turning lanes let you wait without holding up through traffic; use a left-turn lane only to turn left.
  • With two left-turn lanes, turn from each lane into the matching lane of the cross street.
  • Two-way left-turn lanes are shared by left-turners from both directions; check for oncoming users before entering.
  • Mid-block left turn: allowed, even across a solid double yellow line, when done safely without impeding traffic and no sign forbids it; a right turn is safer when you can plan it.
  • U-turns are illegal: when they interfere with traffic, on a curve, on or near a hill crest where others can't see you within 150 m, where signed, at an intersection with traffic lights, in a business district except at an intersection without lights, and where a bylaw prohibits them.

Reserved lanes, pp. 58–59

  • HOV lanes are for buses and carpools; motorcycles may use them on some roads, shown by a "Motorcycles OK" sign.
  • HOV lanes run along the median or shoulder on highways and beside the curb on city streets; most run 24 hours, some only at peak times.
  • Enter and leave an HOV lane only where broken lines mark a crossing point; HOV traffic can be faster.
  • Using an HOV, bus or bicycle lane illegally brings penalties.
  • Bus lane sign: diamond and bus symbol; motorcycles may not use bus lanes; vanpools of six or more may when a tab permits.
  • Bicycle lanes: don't ride, stop or park in them; cross only where the line is broken or to enter or leave a driveway; signal early and yield to cyclists.
  • Turning onto a street with a reserved lane you can't use: turn into the lane next to it; to turn right off such a street, move into the reserved lane where allowed.

Changing lanes, passing and merging, pp. 60–61

  • Entering any lane, yield to vehicles already in it; the gap must be big enough that the driver behind does not need to slow down.
  • You are legally required to signal a lane change.
  • Pass on the right only where there are two or more lanes your way, or when the driver ahead is turning left; never use the shoulder to pass.
  • Pass on the left only when safe and markings allow; never across a solid double yellow line; crossing a single solid yellow is risky.
  • Stay within the speed limit while passing.
  • Don't change lanes in an intersection.
  • Speeding up while someone passes you is illegal; slow down and make room.
  • Passing lanes let slower vehicles keep right; signs show the distance to the next passing lane and when it ends; both lanes must merge before it ends.
  • If your lane ends, adjust speed within the limit and wait for a gap; if a lane beside you is ending, help those drivers merge.

Freeway entrances and exits, cul-de-sacs, pp. 62–64

  • A freeway entrance is an entrance ramp, an acceleration lane and a merging area.
  • Use the ramp to scan for a gap; the acceleration lane (solid white line) is for matching freeway speed; the merging area (broken white line) is where you move in.
  • Don't stop in the acceleration lane or merging area; some freeways allow cyclists, so don't cut one off.
  • Exits: plan your exit number, move right early, signal, keep your speed until you are in the exit lane, then slow gradually.
  • Help merging drivers by moving left when safe or adjusting your speed.
  • Cul-de-sac: closed at one end; slow down, keep right and watch for children and cars backing out.
  • Before turning around, make sure no other traffic is near.

Parking, p. 65

  • On a street, park at a 45-degree angle so drivers see the motorcycle and you can see well when leaving.
  • Park on firm, level ground; on a slope, face uphill and leave the motorcycle in gear.
  • Illegal parking: sidewalks or boulevards; across a driveway, lane or intersection entrance; within 5 m of a hydrant; within 6 m of a crosswalk, intersection, stop sign or traffic light; within 15 m of the nearest rail of a railway crossing; bicycle lanes; bridges or highway tunnels; blocking a sign's view; yellow or red curbs or no-parking signs; disability spaces and their striped access aisles.
  • In a parking lot, backing into the stall (or riding through to a facing stall) means you can leave facing out.

Observation and hazard perception

The see-think-do strategy, scanning 12 seconds ahead, mirrors, blind spots and shoulder checks, observing at intersections, the four kinds of hazards, and assessing risk.

Practise Observation and hazard perception questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Observing ahead, behind and at intersections, pp. 68–71

  • Scan at least 12 seconds ahead: about one to two blocks in the city and about half a kilometre on the highway.
  • Watch the sides of the road too; around parked cars, expect a child to step out or a door to open.
  • Observation cycle: look 12 seconds ahead, scan side to side, glance in the mirrors, then repeat; one full cycle every five to eight seconds.
  • Peripheral vision lets you notice things outside your central view.
  • Adjust mirrors so your elbows or shoulders don't block the view.
  • Check mirrors every few seconds, before slowing or stopping, and before any change of position or direction.
  • Blind spots exist beside and behind the motorcycle; on some bikes the one directly behind can hide a whole car.
  • A vehicle that disappears from your mirror is probably in a blind spot.
  • Shoulder check by looking at least 45 degrees behind your shoulder toward where you will move; repeat if needed.
  • Mirror plus shoulder check before pulling out, pulling over, changing lanes, changing lane position or turning.
  • Approaching an intersection: look left, centre and right, then left again; take extra care with oncoming left-turners, who may not see you; check crosswalks.
  • If your view is blocked after stopping, edge forward until you can see.
  • When turning, shoulder check for cyclists and look where you want to go.
  • ICBC crash data in the guide: 60% of B.C. crashes happen at intersections; 65% of motorcycle crashes involve another vehicle, and in 80% of those the other driver is at fault.

Hazard perception and see-think-do, pp. 71–75

  • A hazard is anything in the riding environment that could harm you or other road users; hazard perception is the skill of spotting them.
  • Four kinds of hazards: space conflicts, surprises, vision blocks and poor road surfaces.
  • Space conflict: two road users trying to use the same space at once, e.g. an oncoming left-turner, a crossing pedestrian, a cyclist beside you as you plan a right turn.
  • Surprises: anything unpredictable, e.g. a driver slowing and speeding up while looking for an address, a weaving driver, a badly loaded pickup, a sudden gust on open road.
  • Vision blocks: parked vans, hill crests, sharp curves, trees or fences, a large truck in the next lane, fog, rain or darkness.
  • Never pass near the top of a hill.
  • Poor surfaces for two wheels: loose gravel, wet leaves, railway tracks, wet or icy roads, slippery markings, oil and tar, storm drains, metal surfaces.
  • Think step: assess the risk, then choose the best solution; with several hazards, deal first with the most dangerous one.
  • Never assume others see you; even when they do, they may misjudge your speed and distance.
  • Before a blind hill crest in the rain, slow down and move toward the centre of the lane.
  • Do step uses four skills: speed control, steering, space margins and communication; the best solution usually depends on where you have space.

Speed, gears, braking and steering

Choosing a safe speed, default speed limits, using the gears and both brakes, inertia, traction and gravity, low-speed steering, countersteering and handling curves.

Practise Speed, gears, braking and steering questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Speed control, pp. 76–77

  • Good speed control means a steady speed suited to conditions; the slowest speed is not always safest, because riding far below traffic speed can provoke unsafe passing.
  • The posted limit is the maximum for ideal conditions; slow down for slippery roads, poor visibility or warning signs.
  • Unless signs say otherwise: 50 km/h in cities and towns, 80 km/h outside them.
  • Most motorcycles have five or six gears; shift with the left foot and the clutch in the left hand; start in first and shift up as speed rises, down as you slow.
  • Coasting downhill in neutral or with the clutch squeezed is illegal; stay in gear for control.
  • Lower gears give more power for hills and passing; aim to keep the engine in its power band.
  • The front brake is the most powerful, giving about 70% of stopping power.
  • Brake smoothly with gradually increasing pressure (progressive braking) so the wheels don't lock.
  • Brake best when upright, going straight and looking ahead; avoid braking in a curve, and if you must, brake gently.
  • Cover the brakes when a hazard is unclear: toe over the rear pedal, fingers over the front lever.
  • Tapping the rear brake lightly flashes the brake light to warn following traffic.
  • Construction warning sign but the road looks clear: still slow down and be ready.

Physics for riders, pp. 77–78

  • Inertia keeps you moving straight; it resists braking and tries to carry you straight through a curve, more so at higher speed.
  • Traction is tire grip; slippery or sandy surfaces and worn or badly inflated tires reduce it; abrupt accelerating, braking or turning can exceed it.
  • Grip from highest to lowest: dry pavement, wet pavement, gravel, snow, ice.
  • Gravity slows you uphill and speeds you up downhill; you need a longer distance to stop going downhill.

Steering and curves, pp. 78–80

  • Up to about 10 km/h the motorcycle is unsteady; steer by turning the handlebars the way you want to go.
  • Counterbalancing in slow turns: lean the motorcycle only if needed and keep your body upright.
  • Above about 10 km/h the motorcycle must lean to turn; you make it lean by countersteering.
  • Countersteering: push the left handgrip to lean and go left, push the right to lean and go right; push the opposite grip to straighten up.
  • At medium and high speed, rider and motorcycle lean together at the same angle.
  • The faster you take a curve, the harder you push, the more you lean and the more traction you use.
  • With little traction left, leaning more, braking abruptly, or hitting a wet or rough patch can make you skid and fall.
  • Slow to a safe speed before the curve so you lean moderately and keep traction in reserve.
  • In a hazard, panicked riders sometimes steer into it instead of countersteering away; practise until it is automatic.

Space margins, lane position and communication

Following distance and stopping distance, tailgaters, side space, the three lane positions, lane splitting, choosing a safe gap, and communicating with signals, brake light, horn and eye contact.

Practise Space margins, lane position and communication questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Space in front and stopping distance, pp. 80–82

  • A motorcycle offers no seatbelt, airbag or bumper, so keep space margins all around.
  • Following distance: at least two seconds in good weather and road conditions; at least three seconds on high-speed roads; four seconds in bad weather or on uneven or slippery roads.
  • Keep at least three seconds behind a large vehicle that blocks your view, when someone follows you closely, and on dusty or gravel roads.
  • Measure seconds by counting from when the vehicle ahead passes a fixed object until you reach it.
  • Stopped behind a vehicle at an intersection: leave about 3 m as an escape space; about 6 m behind a large vehicle for a better view.
  • Total stopping distance = perception distance + reaction distance + braking distance.
  • Seeing and thinking take about three-quarters of a second, and reacting about another three-quarters of a second, before the brakes work.
  • Braking distance depends mostly on speed; weight, tire traction and brake quality also matter.
  • Double the speed means four times the braking distance; triple the speed means nine times.
  • Assume the vehicle behind cannot stop as fast as you, and the vehicle ahead can stop faster than you.

Space behind and beside, pp. 82–83

  • Being tailgated: slow down gradually and increase your space in front to four seconds.
  • Other tailgater options: change lanes, turn right at the next intersection, pull off and let them pass, double-flash the brake light, hold a dominant (usually left) lane position, or shift position briefly and return.
  • Turning left from a highway into a driveway or side road: check mirrors; drivers behind may not expect you to slow.
  • Keep at least 1 m of clear space on each side; don't ride close to curbs, sidewalks, medians or other road users.
  • When passing pedestrians, cyclists or vehicles: at least 1 m, and 1.5 m if travelling 51 km/h or more; more in poor conditions.
  • Keep an escape route on at least one side, even if that means letting a vehicle pass or changing lanes.

Lane position, pp. 84–85

  • Each lane has three positions: left, centre and right.
  • Choose a position for space, visibility and traction; the dominant position makes it hard for a vehicle to squeeze in beside you.
  • The left position is usually the default and dominant position, away from parked cars and roadside debris; in the left lane of a multi-lane road some riders use the right position.
  • Many lanes have a grease strip down the centre, especially in cities and at intersections; avoid painted or plastic lines and manhole covers.
  • Before a hill crest, move to the centre or right position.
  • In curves, choose the position with the best view ahead.
  • A large vehicle approaching: move to the right position and wait about three seconds after it passes before moving back.
  • Strong gusts: the centre position gives the most room to recover, but watch for oil there.
  • Lane splitting (riding between lanes) is illegal in B.C. and dangerous.
  • Riding on the shoulder is illegal and unsafe except when pulling over to stop.
  • Don't ride side by side with another motorcycle in one lane, and don't ride alongside a vehicle in the next lane (its blind spot).

Choosing a safe gap, pp. 85–86

  • From a stop in ideal conditions a motorcycle needs about 2 seconds per lane to cross, about 5 seconds to turn right and reach 50 km/h, and about 7 seconds to turn left and reach 50 km/h; add 2 seconds for safety.
  • Judging a gap depends on traffic speed, the time your manoeuvre takes and the time to accelerate to traffic speed.
  • Not sure the gap is big enough: wait.

Communication, pp. 86–88

  • You can't count on others' responses; communicate clearly and never assume you've been seen.
  • Be visible: bright, reflective clothing, headlight on during the day, a visible lane position.
  • Make eye contact with drivers who might pull out, and with pedestrians and cyclists you stop for; drivers who see you may still misjudge your speed.
  • Turn signals are your main tool: signal in good time but not so early that it is unclear which turn you mean; signal even when it seems obvious; cancel after the manoeuvre.
  • Motorcycle signals often don't cancel themselves; reapply if one cancels early.
  • A hand signal can be added to the signal lights for visibility.
  • Arm signals: motorcyclists signal a right turn with the left arm (cyclists may use either arm); a stop signal is also shown with the left arm.
  • The brake light comes on with either brake; flash it with a light tap before slowing suddenly or where others won't expect you to slow.
  • Use the horn when you can't make eye contact at an intersection, when a driver starts moving into your lane as you pass, when a parked driver may pull out, when a car backs out of a driveway into your path, or when a pedestrian steps out and you can't stop.
  • A motorcycle horn is quieter than a car horn; be ready to brake or steer as well.
  • Vehicle clues: a vehicle drifting in its lane may be about to turn or change lanes; front wheels turned out on a parked car suggest it will pull out.
  • Signal your own intentions by lane position, e.g. move to the left portion of the left lane early before a left turn.

Pedestrians, cyclists, trucks and buses

Yielding to pedestrians, school and playground zones, people with disabilities, cyclists and bicycle hand signals, large vehicles and their blind spots and turbulence, school buses and transit buses.

Practise Pedestrians, cyclists, trucks and buses questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Sharing the road safely, pp. 89–90

  • The key to sharing the road is making sure the space you plan to move into will be empty when you get there.
  • An oncoming driver turning left should wait for you by law, but may not see you or may misjudge your speed; don't bet on it.
  • If in doubt, be ready to give the right-of-way.

Pedestrians, pp. 91–93

  • Pedestrians are among the most vulnerable road users and are often hard to see at night.
  • Passing a vehicle that is stopped at a crosswalk is illegal and unsafe.
  • Be ready to stop for a pedestrian about to step out, but don't wave pedestrians across mid-block; traffic behind or beside you may not expect it.
  • Check that a crosswalk is empty before entering it, even on a green light; slower walkers may still be crossing.
  • Watch for pedestrians on the cross street whenever you turn.
  • Small children are harder to see and less predictable; obey school patrols and crossing supervisors at all times.
  • A 30 km/h school zone sign applies 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on school days, or the hours shown; the zone ends at the back of the sign on the other side of the street.
  • A pedestrian waiting by a crosswalk with a flashing green light has probably pushed the button; slow and be ready to stop.
  • A ball or a hockey net near the road suggests children are playing.
  • A blind pedestrian may carry a white cane or use a guide dog; a raised cane means stop and give the right-of-way; don't rev or honk.
  • People in motorized wheelchairs may use the road where sidewalks are missing or unusable; watch for them before right turns.
  • Yield to pedestrians in marked crosswalks when they are near your half of the road, at intersections (even without a marked crosswalk), and when entering a road from a driveway or alley.
  • Avoiding a pedestrian is always the rider's responsibility.

Cyclists, pp. 94–96

  • Cyclists have the same rights and responsibilities as motorcycle riders.
  • Children on bicycles have poor peripheral vision and trouble judging speed and distance.
  • Bicycles fit easily in blind spots; shoulder check before changing position, turning or pulling away from the curb.
  • At night watch for cyclists from side streets, some without lights or reflectors.
  • Shoulder check for cyclists before a right turn; watch for cyclists waiting to turn left and oncoming cyclists before your left turn; check where bike trails cross roads.
  • Cyclists may move toward the middle of the lane to turn left or to avoid glass, potholes or a narrow lane.
  • Give cyclists plenty of following distance and even more to wobbly, inexperienced ones.
  • A cyclist may signal a right turn with the right arm straight out.
  • Don't honk at a cyclist unless warning them; a loud horn can cause a fall.
  • A motor-assisted cycle has pedals and an electric motor and can go no faster than 32 km/h; riders must be 16 or older; no licence, registration or insurance needed.
  • B.C. cyclists must wear an approved helmet; at night a bicycle needs a white front light visible at 150 m plus a red rear light and reflector.

Large vehicles, pp. 96–99

  • Large vehicles need lots of room to turn and stop, create turbulence and have big blind spots; give them lots of room.
  • Stay well back to see past them and to avoid spray and flying gravel.
  • A slow-moving vehicle sign on the back means keep your distance and pass only when sure it is safe.
  • Stopped uphill behind a truck: leave extra space; it may roll back when the brake is released.
  • If you can't see both of a truck's or bus's mirrors, the driver probably can't see you.
  • Never sneak behind a truck backing into a loading bay or out of a driveway.
  • Passing a truck takes a long distance; some pull two trailers.
  • After passing, pull back in only when you can see the truck's headlights in your mirror, then keep your speed.
  • Never cut in front of a truck slowing for a red light.
  • Choose a lane position away from a truck's turbulence and keep a firm grip; turbulence can pull you toward or push you away from the vehicle.
  • Don't be between a right-turning truck and the curb; a truck turning onto your road may cross the centre line, so you may need to stop well back from the stop line.
  • Trucks can slow with engine retarders or gears without brake lights; listen for engine changes.
  • Signs a large vehicle will back up: horn or beeper, four-way flashers, backup lights.
  • Riding ahead of a large vehicle, signal early before slowing, turning or stopping.

School and transit buses, pp. 99–101

  • A school bus with alternately flashing red lights on top (and sometimes a swing-out stop sign) requires all lanes, from front or rear, to stop.
  • Stay stopped until the bus moves or the driver turns off the lights and folds in the stop sign.
  • Stopped buses can hide pedestrians.
  • On roads with a limit of 60 km/h or less, you must let a transit bus that is signalling and showing a yield-to-bus sign pull out; change lanes if there is room, otherwise slow and prepare to stop.

Emergency vehicles, work zones, trains and horses

Pulling over for emergency vehicles, slowing past stopped vehicles with flashing lights, construction zone rules, railway crossings and trains, and passing horses safely.

Practise Emergency vehicles, work zones, trains and horses questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Emergency vehicles, pp. 101–102

  • Police cars, ambulances and fire trucks with lights and sirens on always have the right-of-way.
  • Traffic in both directions must pull over and stop; exception: on a divided highway with the emergency vehicle on the other side of the median, if it could not cross to your side.
  • Pull to the right and stop (to the left if you are in the left lane of a divided highway or a one-way street); never stop in an intersection.
  • If you are stopped at an intersection and blocking the emergency vehicle, you may need to turn the corner to clear the way.
  • Signal to show the emergency driver you are pulling over.
  • After one emergency vehicle passes, watch and listen for more.
  • Stay at least 150 m behind a fire truck.
  • Riding over a fire hose is illegal.

Stopped vehicles with flashing lights, p. 102

  • The rule covers any vehicle allowed to show flashing yellow, red, white or blue lights: police, fire, paramedics, tow trucks, highway maintenance, utility workers, surveyors, animal control, garbage trucks and more.
  • Passing such a stopped vehicle: no faster than 70 km/h where the limit is 80 km/h or more, no faster than 40 km/h where the limit is under 80 km/h.
  • In the lane next to the stopped vehicle, also change lanes if it is safe.
  • Exception: on a divided highway approaching from the opposite direction.
  • Failing to slow or move over can bring a ticket and penalty points.

Construction zones, pp. 103–104

  • Crashes in work zones happen mainly because drivers don't pay attention; take extra care at night.
  • No visible workers doesn't mean none are there.
  • Obey traffic control persons and construction signs from start to end of the zone.
  • Posted construction zone speed limits apply 24 hours a day, with or without workers.
  • When lanes are closed, merge as soon as possible.
  • Traffic fines are doubled in construction zones.
  • You may have to wait for a pilot car to lead you through.
  • Leave lots of following distance, avoid changing lanes, and keep space from crews and equipment.

Trains, pp. 107–108

  • A common cause of train crashes is not waiting for a second train hidden behind the first on another track.
  • Most trains need about 2 km to stop; never try to beat one.
  • Advance warning signs tell you to look, listen and slow down; an advisory speed tab may show a lower safe speed.
  • Some crossings have a painted X on the approach, and flashing lights, a bell and gates; activated lights or bell or a lowered gate means a train is coming.
  • Trains don't have to whistle at every crossing; they often look slower than they are; passenger trains reach 160 km/h in Canada.
  • Half of night-time train collisions involve a vehicle hitting the side of a train it didn't see.
  • Trains always have the right-of-way and don't slow for crossings.
  • Gate down: stop and wait until it goes up; flashing red lights: stop and cross only when safe; obey a flag person.
  • Stop no closer than 5 m and no farther than 15 m from the nearest rail.
  • With a crossing just before an intersection showing red, don't stop on the tracks; stop before the crossing unless there is room past it.
  • At night ride at a speed that lets you stop within your headlight range.
  • In heavy traffic, don't start across until you can clear the tracks completely.

Horses, p. 109

  • Horses may be ridden on most public roads; their riders and carriage drivers have the same rights and duties as motorists.
  • Slow down, leave plenty of following and passing room, and don't honk or rev.
  • If the rider is struggling to control the horse, stop and wait.

Riding with other motorcycles

Group size, staggered formation, where to put less experienced riders, passing as a group, intersections, group signals and passing another motorcyclist.

Practise Riding with other motorcycles questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Other motorcycles and group riding, pp. 104–106

  • Group formation can use less road space and make riders more visible.
  • Put less experienced riders right behind the leader where experienced riders can watch them.
  • Watch the rider behind you in your mirrors; if they fall back, slow down so the group stays together.
  • Know the route and agree on stopping points before you leave.
  • Leave a group that pushes you to ride unsafely as soon as you can.
  • Don't assume the rider ahead is taking a safe line through a curve; choose your own speed and path.
  • More than six riders: split into two or more smaller groups.
  • If a light splits the group, the front riders should pull over safely and wait.
  • Signal early and allow extra time for manoeuvres and the whole trip.
  • Ride at a speed comfortable for the least experienced rider.
  • Staggered formation: the leader in the left lane position, the second rider slightly behind in the right position, and so on.
  • Two seconds is the minimum following distance; increase it when conditions are poor.
  • Use staggered formation on open highway; single file may be needed on blind curves and hills.
  • Group passing: the leader passes and stays in the left position; then the second rider moves to the left position, passes, and returns to the right position; one at a time.
  • Before passing, ask whether the whole group can pass safely; otherwise wait.
  • Going straight through an intersection, normally keep the staggered formation; if stopped traffic on the right squeezes you, form single file on the left side of the lane.
  • For turns, stay staggered or go single file depending on spacing.
  • Agree on hand signals before starting, but every rider is responsible for their own safety.
  • Pass another motorcyclist the same way you would pass a car: change lanes, or use the oncoming lane where it is safe and legal; never share their lane.

Fitness, distraction and impairment

Vision and hearing, illness and medication, fatigue, staying focused, B.C.'s electronic device law, dangerous emotions, alcohol and drugs, risk taking, peer pressure and aggression on the road.

Practise Fitness, distraction and impairment questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Fitness to ride, pp. 111–114

  • About 80% of riding information comes through the eyes.
  • If your licence requires corrective lenses, you can be fined for riding without them.
  • Listen for horns, sirens, train whistles and odd noises from the motorcycle; hearing protection is a good idea, at a level that still lets you hear critical sounds.
  • Wear a faceshield or goggles, especially with contact lenses; keep headset volume reasonable and the exhaust not so loud it masks sounds.
  • Even a mild cold or flu can reduce alertness; consider the bus or a ride.
  • If a medication label warns of drowsiness or dizziness, don't ride; ask a doctor or pharmacist about conditions that may affect riding.
  • Fatigue is a leading cause of crashes; it affects seeing, thinking and reaction time.
  • Start rested, don't plan too much distance for one day, take breaks with some exercise, avoid heavy meals; coffee, cola and other stimulants don't make you more alert.
  • Being cold reduces focus; wear the right gear, and pull over to deal with a distraction.
  • Tell a chatty passenger you need to concentrate.

Cellphones and electronic devices, pp. 114–115

  • All B.C. riders, including GLP riders, may not use hand-held electronic devices while riding: no operating, viewing or holding a phone, no texting or email, no hand-held music or gaming devices, no manual GPS programming.
  • The law applies whenever you are in control of the motorcycle, including stopped at a light or in stop-and-go traffic.
  • GLP (learner and novice) riders may not use any personal electronic device, hands-free included, except to call 9-1-1 in an emergency.
  • A GLP rider's driving record is reviewed after one distracted-driving ticket and a prohibition may follow.
  • A driver talking on a phone misses about half of what is happening around them visually.
  • Distracted drivers are the leading contributing factor in multi-vehicle crashes involving motorcycles.
  • Safer choices: let calls go to voicemail, make text stops at rest areas, pull over safely for a hands-free call.

Emotions, risk and peer pressure, pp. 115–122

  • Anger, anxiety or sadness make you less alert and your thinking less clear; sometimes the right choice is not to ride.
  • Stay calm by planning routes around heavy traffic, leaving plenty of time, being patient and courteous, and pulling over to settle down.
  • Both under-confident and over-confident riders need more learning and practice; thrill seekers speed, tailgate and pass unsafely.
  • Resisting negative peer pressure: identify the problem, think about the consequences, find alternatives, then follow through putting safety first; e.g. ride at your own safe speed and meet friends later.
  • Positive peer pressure is friends persuading you to do the right thing.

Impairment, pp. 117–119

  • Even a small amount of alcohol affects decision-making and coordination.
  • Alcohol effects: staring, glare blindness, double vision, poor depth perception and peripheral vision, unclear reasoning while feeling sharp, more impulsiveness, slower reactions, poor steering and braking, and poorer balance, especially at slow speed.
  • Only time lowers blood alcohol; food, coffee, cold showers and exercise don't speed it up.
  • At a BAC of .08 it takes about six hours to get back to zero (Transport Canada figure cited in the guide).
  • A glass of beer has about as much alcohol as a glass of wine or an average cocktail.
  • A common fatal motorcycle crash: a rider who has been drinking can't make a curve, runs off the road and hits an object, often late on a weekend night.
  • Over-the-counter allergy, cough, cold and nausea medicines can cause drowsiness and inattention; sedatives, tranquilizers, painkillers and some antidepressants can affect alertness, concentration and reaction time for many hours.
  • Ask about the combined effects of more than one medication.
  • Street drugs can cause hallucinations, altered perception, feelings of invincibility and poor judgment; marijuana can make it hard to track moving vehicles and pedestrians and can delay emergency responses.
  • Many drugs are far more impairing combined with even a little alcohol; one study found drivers combining alcohol and drugs nine times more likely to crash.
  • If you plan to drink, leave the motorcycle at home; if impaired, secure the bike and take a taxi or bus; refuse to ride with an impaired rider.
  • Drinking and riding can mean injury or death, jail, losing your licence, large fines, impoundment, and insurance that may not cover what you cause.

Aggression on the road, pp. 124–126

  • With an aggressive driver: give room and the right-of-way, never respond aggressively, avoid eye contact and gestures, stay calm.
  • If you feel threatened, ride to a busy public place such as a mall or police station; don't go home if followed.
  • Prevent aggression: don't park in disability spaces, don't use turn lanes or shoulders to jump queues, don't split lanes, don't race the engine, follow at a generous distance, move over for merging traffic, pull over if you are holding up traffic, don't block passing lanes, signal early, don't overuse the horn.

Carrying a passenger

When you may carry a passenger, how a passenger changes handling, adjusting the motorcycle, keeping a passenger safe, and how to be a safe passenger.

Practise Carrying a passenger questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Passengers, pp. 122–124

  • You may not carry a passenger on a learner's licence or on a Class 6 or 8 licence with a passenger restriction.
  • Experts suggest about 2,500 km of riding experience before carrying a passenger.
  • A passenger means slower acceleration, longer braking distances, turns disturbed if the passenger leans unexpectedly, and less balance, especially at low speed.
  • Before carrying a passenger, check tire pressure for the extra load (owner's manual), adjust the suspension, re-aim the headlight if needed, and adjust mirrors once both of you are seated.
  • You are responsible for your passenger's safety.
  • Only carry a passenger who can sit safely behind you with feet reaching the footpegs or floorboards.
  • The passenger must wear an approved motorcycle helmet, plus protective, bright clothing and footwear.
  • Tell the passenger to keep feet on the pegs, sit still and never get off while the motorcycle is moving.
  • Avoid hard braking and sudden acceleration; ride slower, especially in turns and curves.
  • A safe passenger sits facing forward astride the seat, keeps both feet on the passenger pegs and holds the rider's waist or the grab rail, tightening the hold when starting, stopping or making sudden moves.
  • The passenger keeps legs away from the hot exhaust, doesn't turn around or lean out to look ahead, and leans with the motorcycle.
  • Agree beforehand on a signal the passenger can use to ask you to stop.

Licence restrictions about passengers, pp. 160–163

  • Class 8L and Class 6L learners may not carry passengers.
  • Taking the road test on a motorcycle of 200 cc or less restricts you from carrying passengers.

Night, weather, road surfaces and cargo

Fog, rain, glare and night riding, headlight rules, gravel, uneven pavement, railway tracks, slippery surfaces, ice, hydroplaning, crowned and banked roads, crosswinds and carrying cargo.

Practise Night, weather, road surfaces and cargo questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Fog, rain, glare and night, pp. 129–132

  • Mist, fog, heavy rain, glare and low light are always more dangerous for motorcyclists than for drivers; in heavy fog or snow, choosing not to ride is a smart decision.
  • Losing sight of the horizon in fog can make it hard to keep the motorcycle stable and upright.
  • In rain, mist or fog: wear bright reflective gear, keep the faceshield, goggles and windshield clean, use fog lights, scan more often, slow so you can stop within the distance you can see, leave more following distance, use the tail lights ahead as a guide, keep away from oncoming traffic and parked cars, and pull well off the road to park.
  • Use the low beam in fog or heavy rain; the high beam reflects off the moisture and causes glare.
  • Riders can't pull off sunglasses entering a tunnel; slow down and scan ahead before a tunnel on a bright day.
  • Blinded by glare: slow down and look down and to the sides; use sunglasses in daytime.
  • At night your single headlight can be lost among other lights and distances are hard to judge.
  • Headlight required by law from 30 minutes after sunset to 30 minutes before sunrise, and whenever you can't see at least 150 m; newer motorcycles keep it on whenever the engine runs.
  • Dim the high beam within 150 m of another vehicle, whether meeting or following it.
  • Overriding the headlight means riding too fast to stop within the lit distance; in curves the leaned headlight lights less road, so slow more.
  • At night: no tinted faceshield or goggles, avoid scratched ones, wear reflective gear, keep the headlight clean and aimed, glance at the right edge of the road to avoid oncoming glare, slow down and widen following distance and side margins.
  • If one headlight beam burns out, use the other to get safely off the road.

Reduced traction: gravel, irregular surfaces and tracks, pp. 133–136

  • Scan far ahead for poor surfaces; if you can't avoid one, slow down and avoid sudden moves.
  • Before gravel: roll off the throttle smoothly, release the brakes just before you reach the gravel to avoid a lock-up, keep a steady speed and the bike upright, grip firmly, brake gently and leave extra stopping room.
  • Riding off-road and back on public roads at night requires a headlight; the bike must be road-legal to ride there.
  • Uneven pavement edges higher than a couple of centimetres (e.g. in work zones): cross at an angle as close to 90 degrees as possible.
  • Crossing grooves or bridge gratings may make the bike weave; slow down and let it track.
  • Wet wooden planks are very slippery.
  • Going from one surface level to another, rise slightly off the seat with weight on the footpegs.
  • Railway tracks: ride straight across in your lane; if the tracks are at a sharp angle, cross as close to 90 degrees as you can (45–90 degrees is safe), setting up well ahead without angling into oncoming traffic.
  • Keep the bike upright on tracks; brake or shift before crossing; wood and metal can be slick.
  • Tracks running nearly parallel to your path: stay well away; to cross, make a quick, sharp turn at about 45 degrees.

Slippery surfaces, snow, ice and hydroplaning, pp. 136–137

  • Watch for mud, wet leaves, painted markings, oil and fuel, sand and gravel.
  • The first half hour of rain after a long dry spell is especially slippery as oil and dust form a film that later washes away.
  • Black ice forms from moisture freezing on the road and is usually invisible; shiny black asphalt is a warning sign.
  • Shaded spots stay icy longer; bridges and overpasses ice before other roads; intersections ice up quickly; wooden surfaces turn dangerous with any frost or wet.
  • Frost on parked car windshields suggests slippery roads.
  • Ice and snow are the most dangerous riding conditions; avoid them; if caught, stay upright, go as slowly as possible and skim your feet if needed.
  • On slippery roads: slow down, avoid sudden speed changes, leave more following distance, allow twice the normal stopping distance, brake early and gently with both brakes, brake only when upright, and avoid the centre grease strip unless it is the only dry part.
  • Watch your footing when you stop on oil, fuel or paint.
  • Hydroplaning: tires float on water and you lose steering and braking; the steering suddenly feels light.
  • Prevent it with good tread and correct pressure and by slowing in heavy rain; if it starts, roll off the throttle and don't brake or turn.
  • Avoid standing water; it may hide hazards.

Road design, wind and cargo, pp. 138–142

  • Crowned roads are higher in the centre; on straights they can make you drift, and on curves you may be leaning into the crown with less margin, so a footpeg or stand can drag.
  • Most curves are banked (inside edge lower), but not all, and not equally; slow down before the curve.
  • Turning across a hill's slope reduces your lean margin like a crowned curve; slow down.
  • A decreasing-radius curve gets tighter; slow before it, avoid braking in it, and countersteer or lean more.
  • Lower advisory speeds on curve signs mean sharper curves; if you misjudge a curve, look where you want to go and steer at a steady speed.
  • Multiple curves: slow down and countersteer one way, then the other.
  • Gusts are common at tunnel and bridge ends, between tall buildings and on exposed roads; large fast vehicles create strong turbulence that can push you, and other light vehicles, off course.
  • In wind: lean forward to reduce wind resistance, grip firmly, lean into the wind (wind from the left, lean left), slow down, ride in the centre of the lane, and give passing trucks extra side room; if crosswinds are severe, stop riding.
  • Crosswinds hit twice: when they start and when they stop, e.g. at gaps in trees.
  • Carry cargo only with saddlebags, a luggage rack, a tank bag or mounted boxes.
  • The load triangle runs between the two axles and the rider's head; keep cargo low, centred, evenly spread and inside it.
  • Respect weight limits, adjust the suspension, keep forks and shocks clear, secure the load, check tire pressure and headlight aim, and keep cargo away from hot parts.

Emergency braking, swerving and breakdowns

Threshold braking, ABS, avoiding skids, swerving and accelerating to avoid a crash, flat tires, engine and headlight failure, wobbles, animals, riding over obstacles and what to do at a crash scene.

Practise Emergency braking, swerving and breakdowns questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Preparing for emergencies and collision avoidance, pp. 143–148

  • "What if?" strategy: keep scanning, ask what could happen and plan your reaction so your response is pre-programmed.
  • Three basic collision avoidance techniques: braking, steering and accelerating.
  • If you often need collision avoidance, your see-think-do skills need work.
  • Threshold braking: apply both brakes smoothly and quickly build pressure to the point just before the wheels lock.
  • A tire that whines or shudders while braking is about to lock; ease up.
  • ABS helps prevent wheel lock-up on wet and slippery surfaces but doesn't let you ride faster and doesn't always stop you sooner; on gravel the distance may be longer.
  • Unlike car ABS, motorcycle ABS doesn't let you brake and steer at the same time.
  • With ABS in an emergency, apply continuous, firm, hard pressure to both brakes; releasing and reapplying turns the system off; noise or shudder is normal.
  • Practise ABS stops on a flat, dry, clean paved area from about 30 km/h.
  • Skids happen when you run out of traction; avoid braking too hard, accelerating suddenly or turning too sharply.
  • Swerving: look where you want to go, press firmly on the handgrip on the side you want to go, then press the other grip to return once past the hazard.
  • Avoid braking while steering abruptly; it can cause a skid and fall.
  • Accelerate to avoid a crash only if you can't brake or steer around; being in the correct gear gives instant power.
  • Combine manoeuvres one at a time: braking and steering together will probably skid you; accelerating while steering sharply needs more lean and can cost traction.

Mechanical problems, pp. 148–151

  • For any breakdown, pull well off the road, stop and deal with it.
  • A flat tire can make the motorcycle jerk or sway; a flat front tire makes steering feel heavy.
  • Flat tire: ease off the throttle, avoid braking (if you must, use the brake on the good tire), hold the bars firmly, keep upright, shift weight away from the flat, then pull over once slowed.
  • A seized engine can lock the rear wheel and cause a skid; immediately squeeze the clutch.
  • Engine failure: signal and steer to the edge, head for an exit or service area or as far off the road as possible, avoid stopping on bridges or in tunnels, use hazard lights, set out flares or a triangle in the dark, stay with the motorcycle.
  • Never get into a stranger's vehicle; ask them to phone for help; don't repair on a crowded fast freeway.
  • Riding at night without a headlight is dangerous and illegal; if one beam fails, switch to the other; if both fail, use hazard lights, slow down, pull off and get help.
  • Speed wobbles come from low tire pressure, poor loading, bent or misaligned wheels, loose accessories, or wind, speed and surface together; they may happen within a narrow speed range.
  • Wobble: grip firmly and go with it while gradually slowing, adjust speed, don't brake, rise slightly with weight on the pegs and as far forward as possible, then pull over and check wheels, load and tire pressure.

Obstacles and animals, pp. 151–154

  • Moving obstacles like animals are unpredictable; stationary ones are easier unless they appear suddenly.
  • Scan roadsides, slow in farm and wooded areas with animal crossing signs, and take extra care at dusk and dawn.
  • Wild animals often travel in groups; one may mean more.
  • Spring (roadside forage) and fall (mating season) bring more wildlife onto roads.
  • Honking can startle an animal into your path.
  • About 6% of motorcycle crashes involve wildlife (guide statistic).
  • Dog running at you: slow as you get near, then just before reaching it steer away and accelerate; don't get so focused on the dog that you ride into traffic.
  • Animal directly ahead: check your mirror, decide whether to stop, steer around or hit it; slow down but don't slam the brakes; leave a wide margin when going around.
  • Large animal you can't avoid: brake firmly and steer to hit it at an angle, releasing the brakes just before impact.
  • Riding over an obstacle: slow if possible, approach upright and hit it head-on at 90 degrees, grip firmly, lighten the front just before impact by releasing the brakes and accelerating slightly, rise on the pegs to absorb the shock, then pull off and check tires, rims and spokes.

At a crash scene, pp. 154–155

  • Helping at a crash: park away so you don't block traffic or emergency vehicles, warn other road users, call emergency services if needed, stay with the injured, and allow no smoking or matches (possible fuel leak).
  • If you are involved in a crash, or cause others to crash, you must stay at the scene, give all reasonable help, and exchange your name and address, the registered owner's name and address, the plate number and insurance details with the other driver, the injured and property owners; give it to police or witnesses if asked.
  • Also: move vehicles off the road if safe, don't discuss fault, note witnesses, exchange licence numbers, sketch or photograph the scene, and notify your insurer promptly.
  • Passing a crash scene, don't slow more than needed; stay focused.

Learner licence, tests and penalties

Class 6L and 8L learner restrictions, supervisors, the motorcycle skills test, novice restrictions, GLP penalties, licence restrictions from the road test motorcycle, fines, points and impoundment.

Practise Learner licence, tests and penalties questionsFlashcardsOfficial chapter

Learning to ride and supervisors, pp. 157–158

  • A motorcycle learner must be supervised by a qualified rider holding a valid full-privilege Class 6 licence.
  • The supervisor may not ride on your motorcycle; they supervise from another motorcycle or a car, and you must stay in their line of sight.
  • Motorcycle riders are six times more likely to be killed in a crash than other road users (guide statistic).
  • If you have never held a Class 1–5 licence, or you hold a Class 7 or 7L, you enter the Graduated Licensing Program (GLP) for motorcycles.

New drivers: Class 8L and 8N, pp. 158–161

  • Class 8L requires the motorcycle knowledge test, vision and medical screening, and the passenger vehicle knowledge test if you don't already have a Class 7 or 7L.
  • A Class 8L licence is valid for two years; to renew it after it expires you retake the knowledge test and vision screening.
  • Class 8L restrictions: zero blood alcohol, zero blood drug concentration (including THC), no hand-held or hands-free devices, display the L sign, supervisor at least 25 with a full Class 6, maximum 60 km/h, no passengers, daylight riding only (sunrise to sunset).
  • Passing the motorcycle skills test (after at least 30 days as an 8L) removes the supervisor and 60 km/h restrictions.
  • The Class 8 road test can be taken after at least 12 months with the 8L; passing gives a Class 8N novice licence.
  • Class 8N: ride unsupervised with zero alcohol, zero drugs, no hand-held or hands-free devices, and an N sign displayed.
  • Free replacement L and N signs are available at driver licensing offices.
  • GLP penalties: fines and penalty points for breaking learner or novice restrictions; prohibitions of a month to a year or more; an immediate 12-hour roadside suspension or longer prohibition for alcohol or drug violations.
  • A prohibition in the learner stage stops your learner time from counting until reinstated.
  • A prohibition in the novice stage resets your novice time to zero; you then need 24 consecutive prohibition-free months.
  • After at least 24 consecutive prohibition-free months as 8N, you may take the Class 6 road test.
  • An approved GLP motorcycle course (at least 39 hours) taken during the learner stage can shorten the novice stage by six months if you have no violations or at-fault crashes in the first 18 novice months.

Experienced drivers: Class 6L, pp. 162–163

  • Holders of a B.C. Class 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 licence get a Class 6L after the knowledge test (online or in office) and vision and medical screening.
  • A Class 6L is valid for one year; to renew after expiry you retake the knowledge test and the motorcycle skills test.
  • Class 6L restrictions: supervisor at least 19 with a full Class 6, maximum 60 km/h, no passengers, daylight riding only.
  • The skills test can be taken after at least 14 days as a 6L; passing removes the supervisor and speed restrictions.
  • The Class 6 road test can be taken after at least 30 days as a 6L and passing the skills test; Class 6 is then added to your licence.

Tests, pp. 163–169

  • The motorcycle knowledge test covers the rules of the road, signs and signals, and safe riding practices; it is multiple choice, not open book, and phones and electronic devices are not allowed.
  • Vision screening checks colour vision, depth perception, field of vision, double vision and sharpness; a lens requirement is shown on the licence.
  • Medical questions may lead to a doctor's report reviewed by RoadSafetyBC.
  • The motorcycle skills test lasts about 15 minutes in a paved lot; passing lets you ride without a supervisor and above 60 km/h.
  • Skills test items include pushing the motorcycle, hand signals, using the stand, slow straight riding with the clutch, braking, slalom, U-turns or three-point turns, turns, accelerating and decelerating, and a sudden stop.
  • Tuning Up for Riders is given free with the learner's licence and can be downloaded from icbc.com.
  • The Class 8 road test lasts about 45 minutes and the Class 6 road test about an hour; the examiner follows in a car and talks to you by radio; both include hazard perception stops.
  • You must pass the skills test before booking a road test.
  • If you fail the knowledge test, you can retake it after 24 hours.
  • Road test retest waits: 14 days after a first attempt, 30 days after a second, 60 days after further attempts.
  • A road test motorcycle of 200 cc or less brings a no-passenger restriction; a motor scooter restricts you to scooters; a sidecar outfit or trike restricts you to three-wheeled motorcycles.
  • No-show for a road test without 48 hours' notice or a valid reason brings a fee.
  • Road tests can be cancelled for faulty lights or horn, missing plate or insurance, unsafe tires, a faulty or too-loud exhaust, illegal modifications (removed turn signals, handlebars above shoulder height, off-road bikes) or low fuel.
  • Motorcycles built since 1974 must have front and rear turn signals.

Licence classes, new residents and keeping a licence, pp. 171–175

  • A valid licence from elsewhere can be used for the first 90 days of living in B.C.
  • Change of address must be reported within 10 days; there is no fee.
  • A licence renewed within three years of expiry may not need retesting; after more than three years you need vision screening, a signs test and a road test.
  • Class 6 or 8 covers motorcycles, all-terrain cycles and ATVs; minimum age 16.
  • Limited-speed motorcycles (50 cc or less, no shifting or clutch, top speed 70 km/h, wheels at least 254 mm, dry weight 95 kg or less) may be ridden with a Class 5 or 7, but on a learner's licence only with a Class 6 or 8 learner's licence.
  • Always carry your licence while riding; never lend it, alter it or use an invalid one.

Penalties and impoundment, pp. 175–181

  • Licence and ID fraud: fines from $400 to $20,000, up to six months in jail, or both.
  • Outstanding fines or debts to B.C. courts, the province or ICBC must be paid before getting or renewing a licence.
  • Reinstating a licence after a prohibition costs $250.
  • Riding while prohibited can mean impoundment, fines or jail.
  • Examples in the guide: speeding 1–20 km/h over in a school zone $196 and 3 points; speeding 1–20 km/h over $138 and 3 points; running a red light $167 and 2 points; failing to yield to a pedestrian $167 and 3 points; improper turn at an intersection or passing without a clear view $109 and 3 points each; a passenger without an approved helmet can be fined $138.
  • Points lead to a driver penalty point premium billed by ICBC; a Driver Risk Premium applies for Criminal Code or 10-point convictions, excessive speeding, or two or more roadside suspensions, assessed over three years.
  • Driver Improvement Program: warning letters, probation, and prohibitions; rapid offences can bring a prohibition without warning.
  • You can be prohibited if police find your ability affected by alcohol or drugs, even below a BAC of .08 or a THC level of 2 ng.
  • First-time impaired penalties in B.C. can add up to $600 to over $4,000.
  • Police can impound the vehicle for 7 days (30 or 60 days for repeat offenders) for driving unlicensed or prohibited, excessive speeding (40 km/h or more over the limit), street racing or stunts, or riding or carrying a passenger improperly seated.

Written in our own words from: Learn to Ride Smart

FAQ

BC Class 6 / 8 Motorcycle study guide: common questions

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