Saskatchewan Class 6 study guide: key rules on all 13 topics

Free Saskatchewan Class 6 study guide: 285 key points from the SGI Motorcycle Handbook in plain words, organised by topic, each topic linked to its practice questions.

By the Canada Exam Prep Editorial Team · Updated October 17, 2026

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This study guide collects our notes on every topic of the Saskatchewan Motorcycle Knowledge Test (6 Endorsement) on one page: 285 short points in our own words, grouped by topic and by handbook section. Read it from top to bottom before your first practice test, or jump to a topic from the list below.

Each topic ends with a link to its practice questions, so you can check what you just read straight away, and a link to the official chapter for the full wording. The notes summarise the SGI Motorcycle Handbook from the SGI (Saskatchewan Government Insurance); they do not replace it, and where our notes and the official source differ, the official source wins.

Study these notes as flashcards →

Endorsements and the MGDL program

The 6 Endorsement learner stage, the written and road tests, Novice 1 and Novice 2, MGDL riding restrictions, engine-size restrictions and the MGDL Improvement Program.

Practise Endorsements and the MGDL program questions Flashcards Official chapter

The MGDL program

You need a motorcycle endorsement on your licence to ride a motorcycle on any street or highway.
Every first-time rider, whatever their age, goes through the three-stage Motorcycle Graduated Driver Licensing (MGDL) program: Learner, Novice 1, Novice 2.
To start: be at least 16 (a parent or guardian must approve if you are under 18) and already hold a Class 5 or higher licence.
New riders have the highest crash risk in their first three years of riding.
An MGDL fee applies when you get the learner (6) endorsement and again on entering Novice 1 and Novice 2; it is waived if you show proof of passing an SGI-approved motorcycle training course.

Motorcycle endorsements

Learner stage = the 6 Endorsement (motorcycle learner's licence).
Before riding as a learner you pass three written exams plus a vision test: the basic knowledge exam (rules of the road, Saskatchewan Driver's Handbook), the signs exam (Driver's Handbook) and the motorcycle knowledge exam (Motorcycle Handbook).
Each written exam needs 80% to pass.
After the written exams you either complete SGI-approved motorcycle training (strongly recommended) or pass a basic ability road test within three tries.
The basic ability road test checks that you can identify the controls, start, stop, turn and balance; 10 or more demerits is a fail.
Passing the approved course removes the MGDL fees, the basic ability road test and the "R" engine-size restriction.

Smaller motorcycles

Taking the basic ability road test on a motorcycle of 400 cc or less gives an "R" restriction: you may ride only motorcycles of 400 cc or less.
The "R" restriction is removed by retesting on a larger bike or passing approved training; otherwise it ends when you finish the MGDL program.
After passing a knowledge exam you validate the endorsement at a motor licence issuer.
A failed knowledge exam can be rewritten as early as the next day.
Failing the basic ability road test a third time means you must take SGI-approved training.
Learners must ride for at least 12 months (24 months maximum) before the "M" endorsement road test.
If you do not pass the road test within 24 months, you rewrite the written tests (signs, rules of the road, motorcycle) to get a new learner endorsement.
A licence that expires or is suspended delays the 12-month learner period.

Motorcycle Novice 1 and Novice 2

Learner to Novice 1: hold the learner endorsement for 12 months and pass the motorcycle road test.
On the road tests the examiner follows in a vehicle and gives directions by cellphone; you bring a cellphone and ear buds.
The road test can be rescheduled if your bike is unsafe, you lack the required MGDL gear, or (for the "M" test) no red "L" placard is on the plate.
Going for the "M" endorsement on a moped gives a "J" restriction.
In Novice 1 and Novice 2 you may ride only motorcycles or mopeds of 400 cc or less.
Novice 1 to Novice 2: 12 consecutive months with no incidents; Novice 2 to full "M": another 12 incident-free months.
An incident (conviction, suspension or at-fault collision on a motorcycle) restarts the Novice stage's 12 months.

MGDL restrictions and requirements

Learner (6 Endorsement): no passengers; no riding from half an hour before sunset to half an hour after sunrise; no towing; red "L" placard.
Novice 1: no passengers; no riding between midnight and 5 a.m.; no towing; green "N" placard.
Novice 2: passengers allowed; no towing; green "N" placard.
All MGDL stages: zero alcohol and drugs while riding a motorcycle, whatever your age.
All MGDL stages: arms and legs covered, finger-covering gloves, ankle-covering boots, and an approved three-quarter, modular or full-face helmet.
Placards are available at motor licence issuers and driver examination offices.

MGDL Improvement Program

MGDL riders get the same driver points as the Class 5 GDL or Driver Improvement programs.
Six severe motorcycle offences: more than 35 km/h over, more than 50 km/h over, twice the limit or more, a speed contest, racing on a highway, stunting.
A severe offence can mean an interview and a 12-month suspension of the motorcycle endorsement.
Riding while your motorcycle endorsement is suspended can lead to the motorcycle being impounded for 30 to 60 days.
Incidents can also affect your Safe Driver Recognition (SDR) discount or bring an SDR penalty.

Helmets and protective gear

Approved helmets and the standards they must meet, eye and face protection, jackets, pants, boots and gloves, and the gear every MGDL rider must wear.

Practise Helmets and protective gear questions Flashcards Official chapter

Proper clothing: an approved helmet

Saskatchewan law requires riders and passengers to wear approved helmets, properly fastened.
When a motorcycle goes down, the rider's head often strikes pavement or a curb; head injuries are often fatal or disabling.
A helmet must meet Saskatchewan standards, have a strong chin strap and fastener, and be free of cracks, loose padding, frayed straps or exposed metal.
A full-face or modular helmet is recommended; bright colours and reflective material on the back and sides help.
A helmet should fit snugly with the strap fastened; loose helmets come off in crashes.
Approved standards include CSA, DOT (FMVSS 218), Snell, ECE 22.05, British Standards Institution and ANSI, and the helmet must carry the label.
MGDL riders (and passengers of Novice 2 riders) must use a three-quarter, modular or full-face helmet.

Eye and face protection

Without a windshield that deflects air from your face, the operator must wear goggles, safety glasses or a face shield.
Eye protection is recommended even with a windshield.
Ordinary eyeglasses can shatter when hit; wear a face shield over them.
Good eye or face protection is scratch-free, shatter-resistant, gives a clear side view, fastens securely, lets some air through to prevent fogging and leaves room for glasses.
Do not wear tinted goggles or a tinted face shield at night.

Protective clothing

Jacket and pants should cover arms and legs completely, fit snugly without flapping and still let you move.
Wear a jacket even in warm weather; leather gives the best protection.
Synthetic materials can stick to the skin when you slide in a crash.
Bright clothing and a high-visibility vest help others see you.
In cold or wet weather, numbness makes it hard to control the bike; long cold rides cause chill and fatigue.
Rain suits should be made for riding; others can balloon or tear at highway speed.
Boots should be sturdy, cover the ankles, have hard soles and low heels, and no rings or loose laces.
Gauntlet gloves are recommended because they also protect the wrists.

Controls and the daily check

The instruments, switches, levers and pedals of a typical motorcycle, what each one does, and the pre-ride check of tires, brakes, lights, fluids and mirrors.

Practise Controls and the daily check questions Flashcards Official chapter

Know your motorcycle controls

You will be tested on where the controls are; you should be able to reach every control without looking.
Choose a bike that is not too heavy or large: seated, you should be able to put your feet flat on the ground.
Controls are not always in the same place on every motorcycle; check the owner's manual.
Tachometer = engine speed in rpm, with a red line marking the safe maximum; odometer = total distance; tripmeter = distance since reset.
Neutral indicator light is green; turn signal indicator flashes amber; high beam indicator is red or blue.
Ignition key can be removed only in OFF or PARK; PARK turns on only the tail light.
On newer motorcycles the headlight and tail light come on automatically when the engine runs.
Dimmer, turn signal and horn switches are usually on the left handlebar, worked by the left thumb.
Most motorcycle turn signals do not cancel themselves; you must cancel them after each turn or lane change.
The brake light comes on when either the front or the rear brake is applied.
Fuel supply valve (petcock): OFF when parked, ON to run, RESERVE when the main supply runs dry; you should be able to switch it while riding.
Choke is used to start a cold engine and is turned off once the engine warms up.
Throttle = right handgrip; twist toward you to speed up; it must snap back to idle when released.
Clutch lever = left handlebar; squeeze to disconnect engine power from the rear wheel; squeeze it for every gear change.
Front brake = lever on the right handlebar (right hand); rear brake = pedal in front of the right footrest (right foot).
Gear selector pedal = left side, worked with the left toe, only with the clutch squeezed; most bikes have four or five gears and neutral.
Engine-kill switch = right handlebar, usually red, for stopping the engine quickly in an emergency; the engine will not start with it OFF.
Side stand holds the bike leaning; centre stand holds it upright; retract the stand before moving off.

Daily motorcycle check

Find problems before you are in traffic.
Tires: check pressure (owner's manual), tread and damage; replace the tire once the centre wear bar shows.
Brakes: test front and rear separately; each should hold the bike when fully applied.
Throttle should snap back when released; cables should have no kinks or broken strands.
Check all four turn signals, both headlight beams, and that each brake control turns on the brake light.
In daylight, pass your hand in front of the headlight to confirm it is on.
Check gas and oil; lack of oil can make the engine seize and lock the rear wheel.
Clean and adjust both mirrors before riding: each should show half the lane behind and as much of the next lane as possible.

Body position, turning, braking and gears

Riding posture, the slow-look-roll-press turn and countersteering, using both brakes, matching gears to road speed, downshifting and starting on a hill.

Practise Body position, turning, braking and gears questions Flashcards Official chapter

Body position

Sit close enough to reach the handlebars with arms slightly bent, so you steer without stretching.
Keep your body fairly upright so your arms steer rather than hold you up.
Hold the grips firmly, starting with wrists down to avoid accidental extra throttle.
Grip the gas tank with your knees for balance in turns.
Keep feet firmly on the footrests, near the controls, toes up; do not drag a foot or "walk" the bike when starting.

Turning

Where you look is where you go: turn your head and look through the turn, eyes level with the horizon.
Four steps: slow, look, roll (gradually roll on the throttle), press.
Do your slowing before the turn so you can roll on the throttle smoothly through it.
Countersteering: to lean and turn right, press forward on the right handgrip; to turn left, press the left grip.
A motorcycle must lean to turn.

Braking

The front brake gives about three-quarters of the stopping power.
Use both brakes every time you slow or stop, with a progressive squeeze, so you have the skill when you need it.
Finish your braking before the turn.

Shifting gears

Gears match engine speed (tachometer) to road speed (speedometer).
On most bikes neutral is between first and second gear; start and shut off the bike in neutral.
Shift up when the engine turns too fast for the road speed, down when it turns too slowly.
Shifting down is harder to do smoothly: open the throttle slightly as you downshift with the clutch in, or the bike lurches and the rear wheel may skid.
Downshift before a turn; avoid upshifting in a turn unless it can be done very smoothly.

Starting on a hill

Hold the bike with the front brake while starting the engine and selecting first gear.
Switch to the foot brake so your right hand can work the throttle.
Add a little throttle, release the clutch gradually, and release the foot brake as the engine takes hold.
Releasing the clutch too fast can lift the front wheel, stall the engine, or both.

Seeing, predicting and being seen

The SIPDE strategy, how far ahead to look, mirrors and shoulder checks, predicting other drivers, headlight and clothing visibility, horn, signals, brake light and the left-turning car.

Practise Seeing, predicting and being seen questions Flashcards Official chapter

SIPDE

SIPDE = Scan, Identify, Predict, Decide, Execute.
Three kinds of hazards: other vehicles; pedestrians and animals; fixed hazards (road surface, signs, guardrails, bridges).
Three choices when you decide: adjust speed, adjust position, or communicate (horn, lights, signals).

Learning good perception

In the city, look one and a half to two blocks ahead; on the highway, as far ahead as you can see.
Keep your eyes moving; do not stare at one spot for more than two seconds.
Use your height to look over or through the car ahead.
Watch the roadside for cars leaving the curb or entering from driveways and side streets.
Keep checking the surface ahead for slippery spots, bumps, gravel, metal plates and wet leaves; pavement markings are slippery.

Using mirrors and shoulder checks

Check mirrors every few seconds, especially before slowing or stopping suddenly, while stopped at an intersection, before turning and before changing lanes.
Convex mirrors show a wider view but make vehicles look farther away than they are.
Mirrors do not show everything: always make a final shoulder check before changing lanes or moving within your lane.

Learning to predict

Predict what drivers will really do, not what they are supposed to do.
Ask: What does the other driver want to do? Am I in the way? Does the driver see me?
Drivers who hit motorcycles often say they did not see the motorcycle in time.
Even a driver who sees you may misjudge your speed, be impaired, or not care.

Headlight, clothing and nighttime visibility

Motorcycles must have a headlight that comes on when the engine runs and the bike is in a forward gear.
One study found motorcycles are seen one and a half times better in daytime with the headlight on.
A headlight helps most from straight ahead; it does little from an angle and nothing from the side or rear.
Bright helmet and clothing (yellow, orange, red) help, especially from angles the headlight cannot cover.
At night a single headlight can be lost among car lights behind you, especially on wet roads.
Leading a group of cars at night? Slow down: drivers are even more likely to turn in front of you.
Reflectors, reflective tape or a reflective jacket help drivers judge where you are.

Horn, signalling and brake light

Be ready to use the horn when passing a car or nearing a vehicle that might pull out.
Turn signals show your plans and make you more visible; use them even when no one seems to be around.
Forgetting to cancel a signal is as dangerous as not signalling.
Hand signals added to electric signals greatly increase visibility; bikes built before 1974 without signal lamps use hand signals.
Tap the brake to flash the brake light before slowing when followed closely, turning off a high-speed highway, or turning mid-block or into an alley.
Park at a 45-degree angle, about 15 cm from the curb.

Left turn in front of motorcycle

The most common car–motorcycle collision: a car turning left in front of the motorcycle.
Approaching a car waiting to turn left: be ready to brake and to use the horn, plan an escape path, and do not fixate on that one car.

Lane position and space

The blocking position, positions for turns, the three-second rule, distance to the side, lane changes, lane sharing and splitting, tailgaters and positioning to see and be seen.

Practise Lane position and space questions Flashcards Official chapter

Lane position (blocking)

Best lane position = the blocking position, a little to one side of centre, which discourages drivers from squeezing into your lane.
The centre of the lane is wrong: it blocks your view past the vehicle ahead and is oily and slippery when wet.
Curb lane or next to parked cars: ride slightly left of centre (protects you from opening car doors).
Multi-lane street: just slightly right of centre.
Three or more lanes: ride left of centre, except in the far-left lane, where you ride right of centre.

Turning position

Where the lane widens at an intersection: shoulder check and move right to about 1.2 m from the road edge so a car cannot come up inside you, turn, then return to the blocking position.
Where the lane does not widen: ride right of centre, turn into the first available lane, then shoulder check and move back left of centre.

Gates and the three-second rule

Keep track of traffic ahead, behind, approaching, from the side, being passed and passing you (your "gates").
Keep at least three seconds behind the vehicle ahead; more in poor conditions.
Count from when the vehicle ahead passes a fixed point; reaching it in under three seconds means you are too close.
Stay well back even when stopped, so you can move if someone comes up fast behind you.

Distance to the side

Avoid riding beside other vehicles: they may change lanes into you and they block your escape.
When being passed (from behind or by oncoming traffic), move a little toward the centre of your lane.
Give large trucks room; their air turbulence can affect your control.
Passing parked or moving cars: the left portion of the lane keeps you clear of opening doors and people stepping out.
Cars pulling out, and especially making U-turns, are a major danger.

Lane changes, sharing lanes and tailgaters

Make sure no one is overtaking; look, signal, look again, and shoulder check before moving.
On multi-lane roads also check the far lane; another driver may be heading for the same gap.
Motorcycles may ride two abreast, but riders should not share a lane with cars; keep your blocking position.
Lane splitting (riding between lanes) is dangerous and against the law.
If someone tailgates you, change lanes and let them pass; if that is not possible, slow down so they can pass safely.

Position for seeing; Ch. 7 Position for being seen

On a blind curve you may move within the lane to see farther, watching for debris at the edge.
At a blind intersection, stop, then ease forward past obstructions to look.
Do not ride in a driver's blind spot; pass through it quickly or drop back.
Most car–motorcycle collisions happen at intersections.
Approaching a car waiting to pull out: slow down and move toward the centre of the road so you are in the driver's line of sight.

Night riding and bad weather

Learner night restrictions, using your high beam and following distance after dark, and riding in rain, fog, cold and winter conditions.

Practise Night riding and bad weather questions Flashcards Official chapter

SGI Motorcycle Handbook, Ch. 8 Riding at night

Riding at dusk, night and dawn is more dangerous; most fatal crashes happen after dark or in low light.
Learner (6 Endorsement) riders may not ride from half an hour before sunset to half an hour after sunrise.
Keep the headlight clean; use high beam whenever you are not following or meeting another vehicle.
Slow down at night, especially on unfamiliar roads, because you see objects in the road only when close.
The lights of a car ahead can show you the road; its tail lights bouncing warn of bumps.
Distance is harder to judge at night: increase following distance, side space and passing room.

Rain

Rain makes the road slippery, cuts visibility both ways and can make brakes less effective.
Without a rain suit and with a long way to go, get off the road.
Slow down, ride smoothly, avoid shiny polished spots; a puddle can hide a pothole.
A very light brake application now and then dries the brakes.
You should be able to see over your windscreen; in heavy rain or fog you cannot see through it.
Do not ride in thunderstorms.

Fog

Watch for fog in low areas and near lakes and rivers, and when air temperature is changing quickly (sunrise, sunset).
If you cannot see farther than your stopping distance you are riding blind; in heavy fog, find a safe place to stop and wait.

Winter riding

In cold weather drivers do not expect motorcycles; assume they have not seen you.
Ice and snow patches hide in shady spots, on bridges, in open wind-swept areas and on side roads.
If you must cross ice or snow: slow down before it, pull in the clutch, coast across and stay off the brakes.
Loose or fresh snow gives more traction than hard-packed snow.
Cold lowers tire pressure and makes the face shield fog more.

Dangerous road surfaces

Slippery pavement, oil in the lane centre, gravel roads, ice and wet wood, bumps and potholes, and crossing railway tracks and parallel seams safely.

Practise Dangerous road surfaces questions Flashcards Official chapter

Slippery surfaces

Most slippery: wet pavement just after rain starts, before oil washes off; also leaves, sand, gravel, mud, snow, ice and worn polished pavement.
Posted curve speeds are for ideal surfaces; slow down more on slippery ones.
Turn, brake, accelerate and shift as little and as smoothly as possible.
Use both brakes; the front brake is still more effective than the rear on slippery surfaces.
Oil builds up in the centre of the lane, especially near intersections; on wet roads ride in the tire tracks of other vehicles but avoid standing water.
Shiny areas mark polished, very slippery pavement.
Dirt and gravel collect at the edges: keep away from the edge on sharp turns and freeway ramps.
Take extra care in early spring before winter sand is swept up.

Gravel, ice and wet wood

On gravel roads, stay in the tire tracks, away from the loose gravel at the edge, and avoid sudden moves.
Balance is almost impossible on ice or wet wooden surfaces; avoid them, or slow as much as possible before reaching them.

Uneven surfaces and railway tracks

For bumps, broken pavement, potholes and tracks: slow down, keep the bike upright and avoid turning, rise slightly on the footrests to absorb the shock.
Check for trains, slow down, and cross tracks at an angle of 45 to 90 degrees.
To cross tracks, ruts or seams running parallel to your path, move away far enough to cross at an angle with a quick, sharp turn; do not edge across.

Alcohol, drugs and fatigue

How alcohol and drugs impair a rider, zero tolerance for MGDL riders, mixing alcohol with other drugs, and preventing fatigue on long rides.

Practise Alcohol, drugs and fatigue questions Flashcards Official chapter

Drinking, drugs and driving

Driving while impaired by alcohol or drugs is a Criminal Code offence in Canada.
Alcohol is an addictive drug that depresses the central nervous system.
In Saskatchewan a drinking driver is involved in four of every 10 fatal collisions.
Age, sex, physical condition, food eaten and medication all change how alcohol or drugs affect you.
The first brain functions affected are the ones you need to decide not to drive, so plan another way home before you start drinking.
Prescription, over-the-counter and illegal drugs can slow reactions and blur or double vision.
Alcohol combined with another drug multiplies impairment rather than simply adding to it.
Impaired driving laws cover alcohol and any other drug, legal or illegal.

Zero tolerance

Zero alcohol and zero drugs apply to drivers under 19, drivers in the GDL program, and MGDL riders while on a motorcycle.

Fatigue

Fatigue slows your ability to notice and react to emergencies.
Wind, cold and rain tire you quickly: dress warmly; a fairing or windshield helps on long trips.
Limit your distance and take frequent breaks off the bike.
If you are upset, overexcited or depressed, leave the bike at home.

Emergencies

Quick stops, swerving, running wide in a turn, riding over objects, animals, tire blowouts, a stuck throttle, wobble, chain breakage and engine seizure.

Practise Emergencies questions Flashcards Official chapter

Getting off the road

Check that the roadside is firm; if it is soft or you are unsure, slow down before turning onto it.
Check mirrors, signal and shoulder check before leaving the road; pull as far off as you can.

Quick stops and emergency steering

To stop quickly, use both brakes with a progressive squeeze without locking the wheels, and pull in the clutch.
If the rear wheel locks, keep the brake on until you have stopped.
Steering around an obstacle can be quicker than stopping; the bike must lean quickly toward the turn.
In an emergency, stay in your own lane if you can; a motorcycle can fit through spaces too small for a car.

Going into a turn too fast

Running off the road in a turn or curve is a major cause of serious motorcycle crashes.
New riders often brake too hard, lock a wheel and slide off at speeds an experienced rider could handle.
If you find you are too fast in a turn, do not panic: lean more and tighten the turn smoothly and gently.

Riding over objects and flying objects

To ride over an object: grip the handles tightly, keep a straight course, rise slightly on the footrests, and do not brake on the object.
Afterwards, stop and check tires and rims.
If struck by an insect, stone or butt: keep your eyes on the road and hands on the bars; pull off when safe to fix the damage.

Animals

In traffic, do not swerve out of your lane for a small animal; hitting it is safer than hitting a vehicle.
For a chasing dog: slow and downshift as you approach, then speed up as you reach it; never kick at it.

Mechanical problems

Front tire flat: steering feels heavy; rear tire flat: the back of the bike moves side to side.
Blowout: hold the grips tightly, keep straight, stay off the brakes, close the throttle gradually; shift weight back if the front tire blew; pull off only when very slow.
Stuck throttle: turn off the engine with the kill switch and pull in the clutch.
Wobble (front wheel shaking): grip firmly, weight forward, close the throttle gradually; do not brake, do not accelerate, do not fight it.
Causes of wobble include a badly mounted windshield, loose or worn steering parts, a bent wheel, loose spokes or bearings; speed makes it worse.
A broken chain: power to the rear wheel is lost instantly and the engine races; a locked chain can skid the bike.
Engine seizure (from overheating or no oil) acts like a locked rear wheel; squeeze the clutch, pull off and let the engine cool.

Group riding

Group size, keeping the group together, the staggered formation and its spacing, single file, and passing as a group.

Practise Group riding questions Flashcards Official chapter

Keep the group small and together

Large groups hold up traffic and get split up; riders left behind take risks to catch up.
Groups larger than four or five riders should split into smaller groups.
The leader looks ahead, signals early (hand signals too) and starts lane changes early.
Put inexperienced riders right behind the leader.
Agree on a pace; watch the rider behind you in your mirror and slow down if they fall back.
Make sure everyone knows the route.

Keep your distance

A close group takes less road space, is easier to see and is less likely to be split by lights.
Riding side by side in a lane is legal but not recommended: you lose your escape room.
Staggered formation: leader in the left side of the lane, second rider a little behind on the right; third rider two seconds behind the first; fourth two seconds behind the second.
On multi-lane roads, three seconds or more of following distance is recommended.
Return to single file in curves, in turns and when entering or leaving a highway.
Pass one rider at a time; after passing, the leader takes the left position and keeps going to open a gap; the next rider returns to the right position.
Always pass on the left.

Passengers and cargo

Who may carry a passenger, the seat, footrests and gear a passenger needs, how a passenger changes handling, instructing a passenger, and loading cargo.

Practise Passengers and cargo questions Flashcards Official chapter

Passengers

Learner (6 Endorsement) and Novice 1 riders may not carry passengers; passengers are allowed from Novice 2 on.
Even when allowed, avoid passengers and large loads until you are experienced; start with a light passenger.
The passenger must never ride in front of the operator.
The bike needs a seat big enough for two without crowding and footrests for the passenger.
The passenger needs a legal helmet and gear like the rider's; passengers of Novice 2 riders need arms and legs covered, an approved three-quarter, modular or full-face helmet, gloves and ankle-covering boots.
Readjust mirrors and headlight with the passenger seated; add tire pressure and adjust shocks as the owner's manual says.

Riding with passengers

With a passenger the bike is slower to speed up, slow down and turn.
Ride a little slower, start slowing earlier, leave more following and side distance, and look for bigger gaps.
Warn the passenger before starting, quick stops, sharp turns and bumps; otherwise talk little.
Tell the passenger to: wait for your OK to mount or dismount; hold your waist or hips; keep feet on the footrests; keep away from hot or moving parts; look over your shoulder in the direction of a turn; avoid sudden moves; rise when you rise.

Carrying loads

Keep loads low (on the seat or in saddlebags), not piled against a sissy bar.
Keep loads over or forward of the rear axle; weight behind the rear wheel can cause a wobble.
Balance saddlebag loads or the bike pulls to one side.
Fasten loads securely; a loose load can catch in the wheel or chain and lock the rear wheel.
Check the load each time you stop.

Equipment, maintenance and registration

Risky accessories and modifications, the weekly inspection, Saskatchewan equipment standards, registering a motorcycle, and when an e-bike counts as a motorcycle.

Practise Equipment, maintenance and registration questions Flashcards Official chapter

Accessories and modifications

Highway pegs: slow your reach for the foot brake and weaken your footing.
Sissy bars: when loaded they raise the centre of gravity and make it hard to get off quickly.
Ape hangers (bars above the shoulders) are illegal, reduce steering control and block vision.
Extended forks increase the rake angle, cutting steering precision and stressing the frame.
Very low road race bars can cause fatigue and make shoulder checks harder.
Fairings, trailers and luggage can overload the bike, change handling or cause a blowout; MGDL riders may not tow a motorcycle trailer.

Weekly motorcycle inspection

Tires need at least 1.6 mm of tread in every groove; replace when wear indicators are level with the tread.
Many blowouts come from low air pressure.
Wheels: look for loose spokes and cracked or dented rims; spin the wheel and check for play.
Lubricate cable ends; oil the chain and check it and the sprockets for wear.
A bike that bounces several times after a bump may need its shock absorbers adjusted or replaced.
Normal vibration loosens nuts and bolts; a clean bike makes missing parts easier to spot.
Scraping or spongy brakes need service right away; check hydraulic brake fluid.
An altered, noisy muffler can be an offence.

Motorcycle equipment standards

Required: front and rear brakes (a parking brake is not), front suspension, muffler, a drive train guard, fenders or mud flaps, a speedometer or tachometer.
At least one mirror with a reflective area of at least 55 cm².
Handlebar grips may not be higher than the seated rider's shoulders.
Horn must be audible from 60 m (200 ft).
Tires must carry the DOT letters or the Canadian National Safety Mark (maple leaf).
Headlamp must have high and low beam; front signal lamps amber, rear signal lamps amber or red.
Reflectors: one red at the rear, red on each side near the rear, amber on each side near the front.
Stop lamps, signal lamps and tail lamps must be visible from 200 m on a clear night.
No passenger may be carried without a passenger seat (or a seat designed for two) and passenger foot pegs.

Registering your motorcycle

Every motorcycle used on a public road must be registered; carry the certificate and show it to police on request.
The registration certificate is also your proof of financial responsibility; basic insurance comes with registration.
New residents must register their motorcycle with Saskatchewan plates within 90 days.
A motorcycle last registered in another province, or imported, needs a mechanical fitness inspection at an SGI-certified station.

SGI Motorcycle Handbook, Ch. 18 E-bikes (power-assisted bicycles)

An e-bike has a motor of no more than 500 watts, is pedalled with motor assist and cannot go faster than 32 km/h on level ground.
No licence or registration is needed; riders must be at least 14 and wear an approved bicycle or motorcycle helmet.
A gas-powered cycle, or an electric one over 500 watts or without pedals, is a motorcycle and needs a motorcycle licence.

Written in our own words from: SGI Motorcycle Handbook

FAQ

Saskatchewan Class 6 study guide: common questions

What is the best way to use this Saskatchewan Class 6 study guide?

Read one topic, then answer that topic's practice questions while the rules are fresh. Note the questions you miss, re-read those notes, and finish with a full practice test across all 13 topics.

Is this the official Saskatchewan Class 6 handbook?

No. It is our own summary of the SGI Motorcycle Handbook. Use it to review, and use the official handbook when you need the exact wording of a rule.

Can I print the study guide?

Yes, with your browser's print command. For practice questions on paper with an answer key, use our printable questions and answers page instead.