BC Class 1–4 overview

BC Class 1–4: Coupling and uncoupling

Coupling and uncoupling a fifth wheel step by step, the tug test, landing gear, pintle hitches, safety chains and drawbars.

  • 15 questions
  • Topic drill
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Coupling and uncoupling · Question 1Score 0/0

When is a trip inspection report needed for a trailer you pick up?

Study reference: Driving Commercial Vehicles (ICBC, 2024 edition), Ch. 5 Skills for driving trucks and trailers — Coupling and uncoupling, Other connections and pintle hitches

All 15 questions in this test

Every question and its answer choices. The correct answers and explanations appear when you take the test above.

  1. When is a trip inspection report needed for a trailer you pick up?

    1. Only for trailers over 10 years old
    2. Only when hauling dangerous goods
    3. Once a week per trailer
    4. For every new trailer each day
  2. Once coupled, how should you first test the trailer service brakes?

    1. Lock up the brakes on a hill
    2. Pull the trailer supply valve while moving
    3. Pump the foot brake at highway speed
    4. Apply the trailer hand valve at slow speed
  3. You charge the trailer air system but its brakes do not release. What might be wrong?

    1. The landing gear is down
    2. The air lines may be crossed
    3. The tractor ABS is off
    4. The trailer is too heavy
  4. Why might you place pads under the landing gear when dropping a trailer?

    1. Pads are required by law everywhere
    2. To make the trailer sit level for loading
    3. To keep the legs from rusting
    4. Soft ground can let the legs sink
  5. How is the tug test done after coupling?

    1. Both brakes released, pull hard
    2. Tractor brakes applied, trailer released, back up
    3. Both brakes applied, rev the engine
    4. Trailer brakes applied, tractor brakes released, pull gently
  6. When should you drain a trailer's air suspension before parking it?

    1. Before applying the trailer brakes
    2. Only in winter
    3. After driving away from the parked trailer
    4. Never; leave it charged
  7. Coupling a pintle hitch, how high should the drawbar eye be?

    1. At the height of the trailer deck
    2. Just slightly higher than the hook
    3. Well below the hook
    4. Level with the hook
  8. The trailer apron sits well above the fifth wheel's pivot points. What should you do?

    1. Release air from the tractor tires
    2. Back in faster so the fifth wheel forces it up
    3. Couple anyway and check later
    4. Adjust trailer height with the landing gear
  9. What is the maximum drawbar length, unless towing a pole trailer?

    1. Seven metres
    2. Ten metres
    3. Five metres
    4. Three metres
  10. While backing toward the trailer, where should you first stop?

    1. When the landing gear lifts
    2. One metre short of the trailer
    3. Right after the jaws have locked on the kingpin
    4. When the fifth wheel just touches the apron
  11. How can you tell the tractor is lined up straight with the trailer?

    1. The trailer fills the right mirror and none of the left
    2. Each mirror shows an equal part of the trailer
    3. The trailer lights appear in both mirrors
    4. You can see the kingpin in the left mirror
  12. Before backing under a trailer, how should the fifth wheel be positioned?

    1. Level, with the jaws closed
    2. Tilted down toward the rear with jaws open
    3. Raised fully with the release handle locked
    4. Tilted up toward the cab with jaws open
  13. After coupling, why go under the trailer with a flashlight?

    1. To check the trailer's registration plate and decal
    2. To check the jaws are closed on the kingpin
    3. To look for the spare tire
    4. To adjust the brakes by hand
  14. When uncoupling, why back gently against the trailer before setting the tractor brakes?

    1. To drain the air tanks
    2. To test the trailer's spring brakes
    3. To ease pressure on the locking jaws
    4. To raise the landing gear
  15. What must accompany any coupling other than a fifth wheel?

    1. A converter dolly
    2. A second pintle hook
    3. Safety chains or cables as strong as the hitch
    4. A drawbar at least five metres long for stability

Coupling and uncoupling: key rules to remember

Our summary of what the official handbook says on this topic, in our own words. Read it before or after the practice questions above, then check the original chapter. Read the official chapter ↗

Coupling with a fifth wheel (p. 80–84)

  • Most coupling is done with a fifth wheel or a pintle hitch.
  • Step 1: set the tractor parking brakes and inspect the fifth wheel for damage, lubrication and security; a sliding fifth wheel must be locked to the frame.
  • The fifth wheel should tilt down toward the rear of the tractor with the coupler jaws open.
  • Route air lines and electrical cable so they are not in the way when backing under the trailer.
  • Step 2: block the trailer wheels; check that trailer spring brakes have applied, cargo is secure, the kingpin is not bent or broken and the apron is flat.
  • If the kingpin is set far back, reposition the fifth wheel so the cab or frame does not strike the trailer.
  • Line up the tractor with the trailer: in line, you see an equal portion of each side of the trailer in each mirror.
  • A trailer without spring brakes: connect the air lines, charge the trailer and apply its brakes before backing under it.
  • Back up with four-way flashers on and horn sounded; stop when the fifth wheel just touches the apron, backing straight (an angle can push the trailer sideways and damage the landing gear).
  • The apron should touch the fifth wheel directly above its pivot points; if not, adjust trailer height with the landing gear or air suspension.
  • Back the rest of the way in the lowest reverse gear, very slowly, until you feel or hear the kingpin lock.
  • Check: jaws closed around the kingpin, no space or daylight between fifth wheel and apron, release handle in locked position.
  • Connect air lines and electrical cable, turn on lights, shut off the engine, take the keys, and go under the trailer with a flashlight to check the jaws.
  • Tug test: raise the landing gear slightly off the ground, release the tractor brakes with trailer brakes still applied, and gently pull against them.
  • Check turning clearance between the tractor's rear and the landing gear, and between the cab and the trailer front (for example a reefer unit).
  • Then raise the landing gear fully and lock the crank handle, remove and store wheel blocks.
  • Pull away slowly and, at slow speed, apply the trailer hand valve to test the trailer service brakes.
  • A trip inspection report is required for every new trailer you pick up each day.
  • Use the differential lock for extra traction if it is slippery.

Uncoupling a fifth wheel (p. 85–86)

  • Line up tractor and trailer straight on level ground able to support the trailer.
  • Set the trailer brakes, release the tractor brakes, back gently against the trailer and set the tractor parking brakes to ease pressure on the locking jaws.
  • Block the trailer wheels; put pads under the landing gear if needed; lower the landing gear until both legs touch the ground and take weight off the fifth wheel.
  • Both landing gear legs must touch the ground to support a trailer.
  • Rain or snow can soften gravel or dirt and heat can soften asphalt; pads spread the load so the legs do not sink.
  • Disconnect and secure the air lines and electrical cable to the tractor, then pull the release handle.
  • Keep clear of the tractor wheels; they may roll slightly when the jaws open.
  • Move forward slowly and stop when the fifth wheel begins to clear the apron, checking the landing gear is holding the trailer.
  • Drain trailer air suspension before leaving the trailer parked (before applying trailer brakes).
  • Recharge the tractor air suspension if it was lowered, then drive completely clear.

Other connections and pintle hitches (p. 87–91)

  • A pintle hitch is a hook on the front vehicle and an eye on the towed vehicle; some have an air or hydraulic ram to remove slack.
  • Any coupling other than a fifth wheel also needs safety chains or cables as strong as the coupling device.
  • A drawbar may not be more than five metres long unless towing a pole trailer.
  • A converter dolly has an axle, a fifth wheel and a hitch; its air lines must be connected truck-to-dolly and dolly-to-trailer for the trailer brakes to work.
  • Couplings must be fastened to structurally adequate frame members and strong enough for loaded vehicles.
  • Pintle coupling: check the hook, latch and eye for cracks and wear; stop just before the hook touches the eye.
  • A block of wood beside a tire, visible in the mirror, helps judge the hook position.
  • Adjust drawbar height so the eye is just slightly higher than the hook, then lower the eye onto the hook.
  • Close the safety latch, attach safety chains or cables, raise the drawbar support leg, connect air, electrical and hydraulic lines.
  • If the trailer brakes do not release when you charge the trailer system, the air lines may be crossed.
  • Uncoupling a pintle hitch: set brakes, release the no-slack ram pressure, block wheels, disconnect lines and chains, release the latch, lower the drawbar leg and raise the drawbar off the hook.
  • Fasten disconnected lines to dummy (dead-end) couplers to keep out dirt and stop chafing.

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